MELBOURNE | When Con Christopoulos and Stavros Konis called it curtains at Supper Club after 25 years, Melburnians waited with bated breath for what was to come next. The answer came last year, when their Greek pop-up from around the corner, Kafeneion, took over the space and became a permanent fixture on the city’s dining scene. In short time, it’s managed to become as beloved as its predecessor.
Named after the Greek “kafenio”, a traditional coffeehouse, Kafeneion doesn’t look much different from Supper Club, which is a good thing. It has a worn in charm that makes the restaurant feel like it’s always been here. It also feels much the same, with a boisterous vibe and friendly service that makes you feel at home.
Food wise, Kafeneion is all about traditional, home-style Greek dishes, from familiar favourites to those not commonly seen in Australia. It’s a tight menu of around 25 options, with dips and starters, larger plates, sides, and desserts.
Light and zesty ouzo-cured kingfish is a great way to start; as are the creamy, crispy pan-fried sweetbreads with lemon and wild Greek oregano; and the herbaceous, rich pan-fried keftedes (meatballs).
For larger plates, you might opt for the gemista (baked capsicum stuffed with herbed rice), or the slow-cooked lamb with potatoes and wild Greek oregano. To the side, it’s hard to go past some feta or Greek village salad, but be sure to not skip the chip. Hand-cut and fried in olive oil, they have a wonderful flavour and texture that’s different than your typical chip.
For dessert, I’m a big fan of both the moist portokalopita (orange filo cake), and halva with sesame and honey ice-cream.
If you visit after 10pm, the menu switches to a reduced late night offering, with a few dishes that aren’t on the regular menu. Mageirítsa, a traditional offal soup is one of these late night dishes, and is a must order.
To drink, it’s Greek and Aussie wines, beer, and spirits. You can also enjoy quality cocktails, and Greek coffee on offer all night. There’s a quality ouzo and tsipouro selection, with many of the options available by the bottle.
Kafeneion
1F, 161 Spring Street
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia
Telephone: (03) 9654 6300
E-mail: [email protected]
Website
Open
Mon: 5:00pm to 1:00am
Tue – Sat: 5:00pm to 3:00am