TOKYO | Chef Yutaka Isayama’s grew up around his parent’s long-running sushi restaurant in Tokyou and Higashi-Nagasaki. He had a keen interest in sushi from a young age, and trained as a sushi chef at the age of 25. He took over the family business in 2011 and opened Sushi Marufuku, focusing on the concept of aging seafood to extract certain flavours and texture. Today, Yutaka’s Michelin listed restaurant is considered one of the best places in Japan to eat sushi.
You’ll find Sushi Marufuki in the Tokyo neighbourhood of Nishi-Ogikubo. It’s a relatively quiet area by Tokyo standards, about 15 minutes west of Shinjuku by train. Just down from the train station, an unassuming door leads an intimate space with a low ceiling, that seats 10 at a long hinoki wood bench that curves around the open kitchen.
Across the approximately 20 course menu, you’re treated to sushi and nigiri, featuring the best quality seafood from across Japan, sourced primarily from the renowned fish markets of the Goto Islands. There’s also a few small dishes like a mushroom soup and chawanmushi served in between courses.
Each piece of seafood is aged from between one to four weeks. It’s either dry or vacuum aged, with the exact time and technique depending on the fish and the desired preparation. Sushi rice is sourced from small growers in Akita and Niigata, and blended with four types of vinegars.
As each dish is prepared in front of you, it’s difficult not to be mesmerised by the attention to detail and mastery of the process. Yutaka can speak some English, and is currently assisted by trainee chef Kanno Shun. Kanno has been at Sushi Marufuku for just under a year, and speaks very good English. An English menu is also printed out for non-Japanese guests.
Sushi Marufuku might be fine dining, but it’s by no means stuffy. Yutaka and the team are happy to answer any questions, and are well up for a bit of banter and a laugh.
To drink, I highly recommend leaving things to head sommelier, and Yutaka’s wife, Madoka. She’s an expert in all things sake, and will match a selection of Sushi Marufuku’s rare and unique sake collection perfectly with your meal. There’s an assortment of other options if sake’s not your thing.
Sushi Marufuku
3-17-4 Nishiogiminami, Suginami City
Tokyo 167-0053
Japan
Telephone: (03) 3334 6029
E-mail: n/a
Website
Open
Mon – Fri: 6:00pm to 11:00pm
Sat: 3:30pm to 11:00pm