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Yang Thai, St Kilda

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MELBOURNE | 2025 has been a great year for lovers of charcoal chicken in Melbourne. New venues like Habibi Chicken and Kokoras have levelled up the Lebanese and Greek versions, and now former La Pinta and Earth Angels chef, Narit Kimsat, and Waxflower co-owner Jimmy Pham, are doing same with Thai charcoal chicken at Yang Thai.

Narit’s wanted to own a charcoal chicken shop or curry joint for years, so when the opportunity came around to turn the former into a reality he jumped at it. The interior is a small one, with a handful of tables and chairs, a fridge/counter separating the front from the small open kitchen. A chicken mural lines one side of the space, the other is filled with shelves holding Narit’s extensive collection of CDs, Thai cookbooks, and WWE magazines.

The menu is short and simple – quarter, half, or whole chicken, available on its own, or as a combo with sticky rice, som tum, and a zesty green chilli, lime, and coriander dipping sauce. There’s also seasoned hot chips with tamarind ketchup, plus Thai milk tea and pandan Basque cheesecake slices. There’s local canned drinks in the fridge, with alcoholic options coming one the liquor license is approved.

It’s all about freshness and attention to detail at Yang Thai. Narit’s chicken is salt-brined for five hours, marinated overnight in a black pepper and tamarind marinade, then cooked over charcoal using two Brick Chef grills.

Chicken is finished in the oven to order, so it’s always fresh and juicy. The som tum is also super fresh, pounded to order in a large Thai pestle and mortar. It’s all super tasty, with the bold, balanced flavours shining through. Vegans can enjoy marinated oyster mushrooms in lieu of chicken, and there’s usually a couple of daily specials on the board. Specials include things like larb, and grilled skewers.

Yang Thai is primarily a take away situation – the “dining area” is a casual covered spot out the front, complete with stainless steel tables and colourful stackable plastic chairs. Despite only being open a week, they’ve already got things pretty down-pat. There was a consistent small line when I visited, but food kept coming out fast, with smiles and positive vibes all ’round.


Yang Thai

49 Blessington Street
St Kilda
Victoria 3182
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Wed – Sun: 12:08pm to 8:08pm

Saadi, Melbourne CBD

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MELBOURNE | Chef couple Saavni Krishnan and Aditya “Adi” Suresh started their contemporary Indian dinner pop-ups under the Saadi moniker a few years ago. They ran the pop-ups while working full time at restaurants like Etta, Gemini, and Manze, honing their skills and tweaking the concept. In May, they took over the former Sunda space for a month-long residency. It proved a hit, and was extended by a month, and then another, until this month, the duo took over the space permanently.

Having been to, and loved, Saavni and Adi’s pop-ups at Etta and Hope Street Radio in the past, I was super keen to check out how they’d translated what they’d learnt over the years at their first permanent restaurant. When I was invited in to take a look, I didn’t hesitate to say yes.

Not much has changed inside, and it didn’t need to. This is still one of the freshest looking dining spots in town. New artwork graces the wall, as to a few knick knacks personal to Saavni and Adi, and a display filled with ingredients and ferments used in the kitchen.

Saavni grew up in Mumbai, her mum from the north of India and her father from the south. Adi, meanwhile grew up all over. Their food combines their heritage and family recipes with the best quality local produce and skills learned in Australia’s kitchens. The result is exciting, contemporary food that joins other restaurants like Toddy Shop, and Enter Via Laundry, in expanding Melburnian’s notions of what Indian food can be.

A tapioca fritter with preserved persimmon chutney started life at a pop-up at Queen Vic market. It’s a fun, chewy and crispy, flavour and textural delight. Salli Boti, meanwhile, sees the traditional semi dry spicy mutton curry reimagined as cured Southern Ranges beef with a brushing of bone marrow glaze and the requisite fried potato straws.

For larger plates, you have to try the Loddon Valley lamb brisket. It’s seasoned with kebab spices, rolled, stuffed, and cooked over charcoal. It’s is served with Dog Creek Growers bitter greens and finished with EVOO, and is one of the best lamb dishes I’ve eaten all year. The whole Corner Inlet flathead with pulikachal, and curry leaf podi, is also excellent.

For drinks, many of the wines have carried over from the Sunda list, with interesting drops from around the world, and local producers like Avani. There’s local craft beer, and cocktails that follow the same theme as the food. I really enjoyed the Chai Iced Tea. It’s a blend of 7 Spice Chai gin, peach, Darjeeling tea, and lemon.


Saadi

18 Punch Lane
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9654 8190
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Wed – Thu: 5:30pm to 10:00pm
Fri – Sat: 12:00pm to 2:00pm, 5:30pm to 10:00pm

Mercure Paris Opéra Lafayette, Opéra

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PARIS | Mercure Paris Opéra Lafayette is a small Paris hotel in an older building, that was renovated in 2021 to bring it up to contemporary standards. It’s one of the more affordable Mercure hotels in the area, allowing guests to stay in what’s usually a pricier part of town, albeit with some compromises.

Location

Mercure Paris Opéra Lafayette is centrally located for visitors to Paris, especially if it’s your first time in the city and you want to be close to many of the city’s sights. The Louvre Museum and Palais-Royal are about a 20 minute walk from the hotel, as is the Palais Garnier.

There are lots of little bakeries, patisseries, and places to eat and drink in the area, and plenty of luxury boutiques. The impressive Galeries Lafayette Haussmann, a must visit for anyone looking to shop in Paris, or sample a variety of premium foods in their basement food court, is a 15 minute walk away.

Grands Boulevards metro station, which gives access to the 8 and 9 lines, and Cadet metro station, which gives access to the 7 line, are both a 5 minute walk away. Bourse, which gives you access to the 3 line, is a 9 minute walk away. One of the Paris’ main overground national and international rail stations, Gare du Nord, is a 15 minute walk away.

Rooms

The hotel features 40 small rooms, ranging from the 10sqm classic room with a single bed, to the 22sqm family room with a king bed and convertible sofa. I stayed in the 12spm classic room with a double bed.

The rooms are minimal, with free bottled water, and a mini bar with tea and coffee making facilities. There’s a radio and TV with free to air and a selection of cable channels, air conditioning, and free WiFi in all rooms. Each room contains a safe to store your valuables, and there’s a chair and small desk.

Bathrooms are very small and cramped. The small shower features a decent pressure showerhead with little room to move. The toilet is wedged between the shower and the counter/sink, where you’ll find an amenities kit and hairdryer. If you need an iron, you can request one at reception.

Mercure Paris Opéra Lafayette is located on a street which does have a few little cafes and bistros, and the noise can travel from the outside to an extent. Windows are quite well sealed though, and there are blackout curtains which do a good job of blocking out any morning sun or street lighting.

Amenities

Amenities at Mercure Paris Opéra Lafayette are minimal. Room service is available, and there’s also a shoe shine machine at reception.

Eat & Drink

Le Lafayette bar, open from noon to midnight, is located in the hotel’s lobby. It’s also where you’ll find a-la-carte breakfast being served. It’s a relaxing spot with chilled music playing over the speakers, and a classic selection of drinks and food on offer. With the wealth of quality, vibrant food and drink options nearby, you probably won’t be spending any time at Le Lafayette.

The Verdict

Mercure Paris Opéra Lafayette tends to receive mixed reviews online, but to me it seems like many of the lower scores stem from a lack of research leading to unreasonable expectations. I’ve stayed in Paris many times, and am very accustomed to the fact that reasonably priced rooms in this city are very small by global standards.

For me, I’m looking for a spot that’s well located, clean, safe, and can offer me a comfortable night’s sleep, all without paying over the odds. If that means that I sacrifice some amenities, and have to accept an older building, I’m fine with that. Judged against these criteria, Mercure Paris Opéra Lafayette delivers.

Soundproofing of the rooms could be better, but it’s not that bad. Nothing that popping in a set of foam earplugs can’t alleviate. As a base to get a good night’s sleep and then explore the city, this hotel is a solid option. It’s particularly good for a short city break. I’d happily stay here again.


Mercure Paris Opéra Lafayette

7 Rue de Trévise
Opéra
75009 Paris
France

Telephone: 014 770 2675
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Alpha Ouzeri, Brunswick

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MELBOURNE | Harry and Rosie Tsiukardanis originally opened Alpha Ouzeri in Fitzroy in 2008. While always a bit under the radar, the restaurant was a hit with locals and Melbourne’s Greek community, who enjoyed Rosie’s warm hospitality, and Harry’s fresh take on classic Greek taverna fare.

Looking for a change of pace, and something closer to home, Harry and Rosie sold their stake in Alpha Ouzeri in 2016, and opened Essendon café, ROSEM1LK. The café was one of Melbourne’s lockdown casualties, and the difficult decision to close it left Harry and Rosie wondering what to do next.

They both missed the connection to their heritage that they had at Alpha Ouzeri, and Harry missed cooking Greek food for a wider audience than family and friends. When the former Small Axe space in Brunswick became available, Harry and Rosie decided to resurrect Alpha Ouzeri.

The space is homely and welcoming. The location might be new, and nine years might have passed between both versions of the restaurant, but it feels like a place that’s been here since day one. Rosie’s warm hospitality sets the tone, making you feel like you’ve been greeted into her home. The fact that you’ll hear conversations from regulars making a return from the original days, says it all.

The menu features a selection of meze and larger share plates. It’s food that evokes the tavernas of Thessaloniki moreso than those of Athens. It’s not surprising, given that Harry hails from Kastoria, in northern Greece. The town is around an hour’s drive from the villages that my grandparents are from, so it’s food that’s particularly nostalgic for me.

I highly recommend starting with the ‘Alpha Ouzeri Favourites’. It’s a platter of tzatziki, baba ganoush, feta, kefalotyri, pickled octopus, toursi (spicy mixed pickles), olives, pastourma, village-style garlic bread, and koulouri.

For larger share plates, the boneless, compressed lamb shoulder is a great option. It pulls apart with a mix of tender meat and crispy ends, and is served with eggplant puree, pistachio salt, potato rosti, garlic, and pomegranate molasses. You might also want to try the krasomezze. It’s a grilled pork sausage with harissa, feta, and caramelised onions.

If its grilled meat you’re after, the grilled meat platter of lamb cutlets, lemon lamb, chicken skewers, sausages, baked potatoes, and Greek salad is a top choice. Be sure to take note of the specials, too. When I visited, I was wowed by perfectly charred king prawns with chilli oil, spicy capsicum, and squid ink mayonnaise.

For dessert, its dishes like rizogalo crème brûlée, semolina and ricotta bougatsa with honey and yoghurt, and olive oil chocolate mousse. To drink, there’s Greek and local beer and wine, a selection of Greek-inspired cocktails, plus ouzo and tsipouro, of course.


Alpha Ouzeri

281 Victoria Street
Brunswick
Victoria 3056
Australia

Telephone: (03) 8851 9471
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Tue – Sat: 5:00pm to 11:00pm
Sun: 11:30am to 3:00pm

Athens Street Art Guide

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ATHENS | Anyone who loves street art needs to visit Athens, one of the street art capitals of the world. Walk through the centre of town, and the many local neighbourhoods that extend beyond the city, and you’ll find a wealth of colourful creations.

Street art in Athens is varied in scope, and has strong ties to the local community and the people of the city. There are large murals painted by local and international artists, commissioned by the government, creative agencies and organisations. There’s also smaller scale murals, painted guerrilla-style across the city, and lots of tagging.

The city has been through a lot in recent years, from the highs of the 2004 Olympic Games, to the lows of the GFC-induced austerity period of the 2010s. They city has bounced back, and today is a vibrant, creative hub for Greeks and creatives from all over the world.

Athens’ street art reflects this energy and history. It’s beautiful and colourful, gritty and raw, hopeful and confronting. Artists aren’t afraid to speak their mind in Athens. Greece has a strong protest heritage, and you’ll find lots of murals speaking truth to power, covering topical issues of the day. Through the city’s street art, you will learn about the city and its people.

In this Athens street art guide, I’ll tell you about some of my favourite areas to visit for Athens’ best street art.


Anafiotika

This historic, quiet residential neighbourhood, located near the Acropolis, is where you’ll find lots of smaller-scale murals. Wander through the maze-like narrow streets, passing by humble stone houses, and you’ll find numerous low-key murals painted by local artists, and a surprisingly high number of French artists.

Exarchia

This bohemian neighbourhood is known for its anarchist, counterculture streak. There’s a long history of resistance to power in this part of Athens, and a strong sense of community. Exarchia is home to many students, politically active individuals, and intellectuals. The neighbourhood’s alternative, independent stores and bars reflect this, as do its many murals.

Gazi

Cantered around a former gasworks which was transformed into creative hub, Technopolis, Gazi is a small neighbourhood filled with contemporary art spaces, Greek tavernas, and global eateries, and a lot of bars and clubs that stay open well into the early hours of the morning. As you would expect in an area like this, there’s a lot of street art of be found.

Kerameikos

Directly north-east of Gazi, you’ll find the neighbourhood of Kerameikos. It’s centred on the archaeological site of what was ancient Athens’ largest cemetery. The wider neighbourhood isn’t particularly known for street art, but you’ll find some around the area that borders Gazi, extending up to the archaeological site.

Kypseli

Kypseli is a quiet neighbourhood, with low rents that’s led to an influx of artists and creatives in recent years. With this, has come an quirky mix of independent cafes, bars, eateries, and boutiques. It’s also led to many murals being painted in the neighbourhood. When you visit Kypseli Market, be sure to look out for the giant guitar playing rooster mural. It was painted by Bali-born, Athens-based arist, WD.

Metaxourgheio

Metaxourgheio is a very interesting neighbourhood to explore. A former industrial area, it transformed into a theatre district during the interwar period, with a bohemian streak. Today it’s a very artsy area, filled with theatres, galleries, and studios. You’ll find all of these, alongside grungy bars, and trendy new eateries.

The neighbourhood is also filled with brothels, and it’s not uncommon to see people shooting up with drugs in alleyways. Keep your wits about you as you explore the area, be aware of your surroundings, and you’ll have a great time discovering the area’s plentiful murals.

Neos Kosmos

This blue collar residential neighbourhood has historically been quite low key, but since the arrival of the Onassis Cultural Centre (Stegi) in 2010, the area’s become a bit of an artistic hub. Several small galleries and artistic space opened in subsequent years, and in 2020, the impressive National Museum of Contemporary Art Αthens (ΕΜΣΤ), opened.

You’ll find quite a bit of street art in the neighbourhood, including inside Athens’ first and only urban art gallery, Delirium Athens.

Omonoia

Another neighbourhood with a bit of a sketchy side but plenty of street art is Omonoia. It’s one of those neighbourhoods where one street seems perfectly safe and busy, and then a street away things are quite and there’s drug use out in the open. The area is starting to transform, with several great eateries, bars, and independent shops like bookstores and record stores, opening up.

Be aware of your surroundings while exploring, and you’ll be rewarded with some impressive murals. The large “Praying Hands” mural on the side of the Vienna Hotel, painted by Manolis Anastasakos and brothers Dimitris, Babis and Thanassis Cretsis, is particularly impressive.

Psiri

Psiri is a neighbourhood that’s experience contrasting fortunes over the years. A one-time working class part of Athens, the area saw declines and manufacturing moved out of the city centre. For a while, it was one of the sketchier parts of the city, but was cleaned up quite a bit leading up to the 2004 Olympics.

Today, Psiri is one of Athens’ most vibrant neighbourhoods, filled with historic and modern buildings, and winding back streets. It’s known for its small, independent boutiques, bars, and eateries, and street art. There’s a real mix of street art in this neighbourhood, from small to large tags and murals, all filled with colour.

Be sure to visit the mural “Loukanikos”, by Billy Gee, Alex Marinex, and N_Grams. Loukanikos was a Greek riot dog that participated in almost every anti-austerity protest in Athens. Initially a stray, he was taken care of by protesters and, later on, a man named Achilleas. Loukanikos was known for his fearlessness, appearing at the front lines of protests, and barking at authorities.

In 2011 Time magazine listed Loukanikos as one of its personalities of the year. He passed away in 2014, at the age of 10, due to health complications arising from the ingestion of tear gas while at the front lines of protests. Originally painted in 2014, the mural was touched up by the original artists, and given a new lease of life, in 2024.

Piraeus

If you are catching a ferry from Athens, you’ll find yourself in Piraeus neighbourhood. It’s home to Europe’s largest port, and was once a city in its own right. Be sure to take some time before or after your ferry trip to wander around the neighbourhood, as there are plenty of murals. In particular keep an eye out for murals by INO, who lives in the area.

Vyronas

Another former city which now forms part of greater Athens is Vyronas. You’ll find lots of recent murals here, many of which have been painted as part of the Vyronas Street Art Festival, which has been held each year since 2001. The inaugural festival celebrated the 200th anniversary of the Greek Revolution of 1821, with murals focusing on the theme of philhellenism and the Greek struggle for freedom. Subsequent year’s themes have included local schools, and community.


Identified artists featured in the image gallery include:

Happy discoveries on your street art walk through Athens. What are your favourites places for street art in Athens? Are there any street art neighbourhoods beyond these hotspots that you love?

Baby Driver, Melbourne CBD

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MELBOURNE | Penny Blue was one of my favourite little bars in Melbourne, in particular for its 150+ strong selection of craft beer from around the world. Chris, Jeff, and I even recorded a Brunswick Beer Collective podcast episode there back in 2015. Needless to say, I was saddened when the bar became a casualty of Melbourne’s lockdowns.

A silver lining was that the lease was taken over by Penny Blue’s subterranean neighbours, Beneath Driver Lane, another long-standing favourite of mine. After a short stint as Torino, which never quite captured the city’s imagination, owner Hamish Goonetilleke reimagined the space as Baby Driver. It’s a natural extension of, and compliments, Beneath Driver Lane. I was recently invited in to check it out.

Named not for the 2017 Edgar Wright movie, but rather for its status as the little sibling of Beneath Driver Lane, Baby Driver bills itself as “a vibrant fusion of 70s jazz and funk, international wine, and crafted cocktails”. It’s an accurate description. The space is cosy a stylish, with a speakeasy feel about it. DJs spin records that fit, and orbit around the general theme, until late. Collaborations nights with independent Melbourne record stores, showcase music from up-and-coming local musicians.

There’s a full array of drinks on the menu, but the focus here isn’t so much whiskey, as it is downstairs, but wine. The list showcases interesting and top notch local and international drops across a variety of styles. There’s affordable options by the glass, and fancier glasses of wines that are usually bottle only, thanks to Baby Driver’s Coravin system.

Cocktails are a highlight too. A selection of signatures cocktails and classics, including my favourite, Time After Time. It’s a delightful blend of Bombay Sapphire Gin, Yellow Chartreuse, chestnut extract, and apple liqueur. Beer wise, it’s not quite the 150+ strong bottle list of Penny Blue, but you’ll still find a diverse selection of around 10 options, from local, independent breweries.

Food wise, chef Juan Berbeo’s Colombian-leaning South American restaurant, Berbeo Bar & Grill has taken over the restaurant. You’ll find favourites from his Docklands restaurant on the menu, plus a few venue-specific things. Empanadas, prawn ceviche, house-made chorizo, Sher Wagyu flame-grilled steaks, leche asada, and more. The $75 chefs menu, which gets you a glass of prosecco, a greatest hits selection of food, and tickets to a live blues show downstairs, is great value. There’s also plenty of vegetarian options.


Baby Driver

2 Driver Lane
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Wed – Thu: 5:00pm to 12:00am
Fri – Sat: 4:00pm to 1:00am

Zareh, Collingwood

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MELBOURNE | There has been so much written about Tom Sarafian’s long-awaited restaurant, , leading up to, and in the weeks after it opened late last month, that I figured I’d take a different approach here.

MELBOURNE | As you likely already know, Tom Sarafian’s long-awaited restaurant, Zareh, is here. In what will come as no surprise to anyone who knows Tom, and his partner, Jinane Bou Assi, it’s brilliant.

I first met Tom in 2019, when he was head chef at Bar Saracen. Recently returned from a trip to Mexico, he was doing a one-night event, exploring the little Lebanese-Mexican cuisine that evolved from the wave of Lebanese people migrating to Mexico in the late 19th century. I was hooked on Tom’s food from that night. With a shared passion for food, travel, and funky tunes, it didn’t take long for us to become friends.

Bar Saracen didn’t survive lockdowns, but its closure gave Tom the opportunity to run several pop-ups, and create his “Sarafian” line of hummus, toum, and harissa. His own restaurant was always the plan, but it had to be right.

Named after Tom’s chef grandfather, Zareh is an ode to his Armenian-Egyptian heritage, and Jinane’s Lebanese heritage. It’s inspired by Tom and Jinane’s travels through North Africa and the Middle East, and their family’s recipes. It’s honest, comforting food, refined by techniques learnt working in some of Melbourne and the UK’s top kitchens.

Stepping inside feels like walking into a family-run spot that’s been around for years. Staff, several of who are literally Tom and Jinane’s family, are friendly and passionate. Funky on-theme tunes play on vinyl through the custom sound system. The sound of joyous conversation fills the air, as does the smell of spices, and food being cooked over charcoal on the custom-built Brick Chef grill.

You’ll find Tom’s signature items, like hummus with king prawns and spanner crab, and juicy chicken kebab with toum and spiced green chilli on the menu. There’s also lots of new dishes, like thin-sliced wagyu bastourma, cured with chemen spices, layered on charcoal-grilled Akimbo sourdough, topped with goats cheese, fresh herbs and wood fired red bullhorn peppers. It’s all excellent. A pantry section features condiements and spices used by the kitchen, for home.

Cocktails, designed by Matt Linklater, are informed by the same influences as the food, with premium arak by Lebanon’s Arak Farid, featuring heavily. I’m a big fan of the ‘Sipan Slipper’. It’s a blend of pear mistelle, bianco vermouth, verjuice, soda, and citrus. There’s also a wine list filled with local and global drops, with a notable Lebanese, and Armenian selection.

Congratulations, Tom and Jinane, on the opening of Zareh. It’s a joy to see it finally open, and be everything that you both wanted. It’s been a pleasure getting to know you over the years, and Lauren and I wish you all of the success and joy that I’m sure Zareh will bring. Genats!


Zareh

368 Smith Street
Collingwood
Victoria 3066
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9070 0733
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Wed – Sat: 5:30pm to 11:00pm

Paris Food Guide: Where To Eat

PARIS | What’s there to say about French food that hasn’t been said before? It’s one of the most recognisable cuisines in the world, with a reputation like no other. France is known for its chefs, food, and techniques that have influenced cuisines and culture all over the world.

Paris is, of course, one of the best places in the world in which to eat French food. The city is filled with brilliant bistros and cafes, bakeries and patisseries, and plenty of places in which you will find excellent wine, charcuterie, cheese, and more.

What’s less known about Paris, though, is just how much the city’s food horizons have expanded in recent years. There’s a long immigrant culture in this city, and you’ll find great food from all over the world. In particular, those places that were once part of the French Empire. You’ll find these influences in some of the city’s more contemporary restaurants, which blend French tradition and technique with personal cultural influences.

Paris’ contemporary restaurants have also been influenced by chefs that have travelled, worked in kitchens abroad, and are keen to expand the idea of what French food can be. Of course, the traditional spots, and new spots which take tradition but zone in more than ever on things like sourcing and sustainability, are all worth a visit too.

In this Paris Food Guide, updated as at September 2025, I’ll tell you the places to visit if you want to experience the best food and drink in Paris.

I’ve placed the tips in alphabetical order, and they’re all worth checking out. Are any of your favourites listed below? Are there any places that you think should be on my Paris food guide?


Acmé

Pastry chef Margot Delacroix and sommelier Lucas Moissonnier’s restaurant, Acmé, is a warm, welcoming, intimate space, that evokes the lounges of 1980s Paris. Featuring a tasting menu that changes regularly, the menu is French at heart, but consists of influences from around the world.

Delacroix’s food combines innovative flavours, local products, and quality ingredients. Things like celeriac tatin pie with miso caramel and Isigny cream; beef tataki with sesame carrots, mango vinegar, and consommé; and a cookie with cookie dough, chocolate sorbet, and bourbon brown butter espuma.

It’s exciting food, that’s elevated by Moissonnier’s considered wine pairings, which showcase some of France’s best regional winemakers.

Au Petit Panisse

Housed in a former butcher shop, with simple décor, period tiles, and wooden furniture, Au Petit Panisse appears much like any other Parisian bistro. Indeed, it captures all of things that you want in bistro, but does enough to stand out from the pack.

The best quality seasonal French produce is used to create dishes that excite. It’s things like veal steak with anchovy sauce, blanquette sauce and spring vegetables; leeks with buttermilk sauce and mussels; and cabbage and rhubarb in consommé, with candied egg yolk, and pig’s ear.

The wine list features top notch natural French wines. To top things off, Au Petit Panisse is open on Mondays, when many of the city’s other tasty spots are closed.

Bar Nouveau

This award-winning bar, helmed by internationally renowned bartender, Remy Savage, is inspired by Art Nouveau. From the fittings, to the light fixtures, and glassware, there’s a real attention to detail in imagining what Bar Nouveau would have looked like during the peak of Art Nouveau’s popularity. Downstairs, the vibe is more nature intertwined with modern technology.

You’ll only find six cocktails on the constantly rotating menu. It’s an exciting selection of cocktails that riff on the classics, and creative signature creations.

Bistrot Des Tournelles

Step inside Bistrot Des Tournelles, and you might assume that it’s a classic French bistro that’s been around for over 100 years. It’s a fair assumption, given the way that Bistrot des Tournelles looks and feels. In fact, it only opened in 2022.

The warm interior features retro fittings like antique mirrors, art deco chandeliers, and vintage photos. Chairs are made by long-time cafe chair artisan, and have their own history.

Head chef Geoffroy Lalangella has put together a menu of well-executed bistro classics with an emphasis on technique, and the quality and providence of ingredients. Think creamy oeufs mayonnaise, Provencal beef stew, andouillette (seasoned pork chitterling sausage), and Cordon Bleu with comté & Prince de Paris ham.

To drink, its a tight selection of exclusively minimal intervention wines from some of France’s best winemakers, plus a few other things.

Candelaria

You may be wondering why I’m including a taqueria on this list when I stated that I’d be focusing on French food. While the taqueria is excellent, Candelaria’s inclusion here is for its hidden cocktail bar out the back.

In the low-lit, speakeasy-style bar you’ll find a menu filled with thematic, creative, seasonally-inspired cocktails and mocktails. Elizabeth Dane is a blend of whiskey, cascara, oolong tea, and fermented red fruits. PCT, meanwhile features tequila, tamarind, peanut, and arbol chilli. Agave spirits are a big part of Candelaria, with 13 pages of options on the menu.

Caractère de Cochon

If you like ham sandwiches, Caractère de Cochon, in Paris’ Marais district is a must visit. The tiny spot, which opened in 2013, is dedicated to the best quality hams and cured meats from across France, Italy, and Spain.

Their famed jambon beurre sandwiches are sublime. You can build you own, or go for one of the default options. Either way, you can’t go wrong. Simple, unfussy, and quality.

City Of Light Coffee

Paris’ coffee scene has come forward by leaps and bounds in the past decade. Gone are the days when your only option was an average at best filter coffee. Today, there are several great coffee spots brewing brilliant espresso and filter coffee, using the best locally roasted beans sourced from around the world.

One such place is City of Light Coffee. Opened by couple Charles and Catalina at the start of this year, it’s a great little spot featuring coffee beans that are roasted on site, in locally-made, custom ceramic cups.

They also sell a few non-coffee drinks like limonada de coco, along with baked treats like chocolate brownies, cinnamon rolls, and croissants.

Debauve & Gallais

Debauve & Gallais was founded in 1800 by Sulpice Debauve, former chemist to French king Louis XVI. One of my favourite chocolate spots in Paris, they’re famed for their Marie-Antoinette Pistoles and other fine chocolates.

Beyond chocolate, you’ll find a small selection of other products, including one of my favourite teas, Saints-Pères. It’s an intoxicating blend of Chinese black tea, cocoa nibs, dark chocolate, red berries, rhubarb, and caramel butter.

Gilou

Located down a quiet street in a former butcher shop, Gilou is all about unfussy, seasonal, produce driven and ingredient-focused cooking. It’s compact menu of contemporary French bistro food at heart, with nods to co-owner/chef Chris Woolard’s English roots and his experience cooking in the UK, Italy, and France.

To start, it’s things like potato rosti with beef tartare and mustard, chicken terrine with pickles and apricot chutney, and leek and cheddar croquettes. For larger dishes, you’ll find options like saffron cavatelli with , and cuttlefish fideua with mussels and aioli. It’s all very tasty stuff, with the quality of the produce shining through.

Co-owner Dan Humphris’ wine list features a compact selection of minimal intervention wines from some of France’s most exciting winemakers. There’s also craft beer from nearby Les Bières de Belleville.

Harry’s New York Bar

Harry’s New York Bar is one of Paris’ iconic bars. Moved piece-by-piece from New York City in 1911, the bar is still owned and run by the family of original bartender, Harry MacElhone.

The dark, mahogany bar evokes memories of a time long passed, with historic college sports paraphernalia and old newspaper clippings dotted about. It’s a casual place, where you’ll encounter people from around the world conversing and singing together. There’s a piano bar in the basement, where George Gershwin composed ‘An American in Paris’.

There’s over 400 cocktails and 350 whiskeys on the menu. Several of what are now classic cocktails were were (as best anyone knows) invented here, including the Bloody Mary, French 75, Sidecar, Blue Lagoon, and Monkey Gland.

Hoppy Corner

Hoppy Corner is a cosy little spot to visit if you’re into craft beer. There’s 15 different beers on tap, with a focus on craft breweries from across France. You’ll also find collaborations and tap takeovers from breweries further afield.

Staff are happy to give you a little try of any of the beers if you like. There’s also a small selection of wine and other drinks. If you’re hungry, there’s also a food menu with a selection of pub and bistro classics.

Jean-Paul Hévin

Starting as the pastry chef at Joël Robuchon in 1976, Jean-Paul Hévin developed a passion for chocolate, and eventually started his own chocolaterie. Today, there are six Jean-Paul Hévin locations in Paris, all selling some of the best chocolate in town.

Several of the boutiques contain cafes, where you can enjoy not just chocolate, but an assortment of cakes, pastries, and drinks.

La Crêperie de Josselin

Paris’ Montparnasse neighbourhood is known for its many crepe spots. One of the best is La Crêperie de Josselin, which has been consistently busy with locals and visitors to Paris for decades.

The old school, dark timber, traditional, venue specialises in buttery, thin, and crispy Brittany-style crêpe bretonne. You can choose from a variety of savoury and sweet options like cheese and ham; cheese, egg, and onion; and salted butter caramel flambéed with Grand Marnier. Enjoyed with some cidre breton, you can’t go wrong.

Le BaB Opera

Le BaB Opera is a low key place, close to the Place de l’Opéra, that’s a great option for lovers of craft beer. There’s 11 mostly French craft beers of varying styles on tap, along with an impressive can and bottle list. If you’re with someone that doesn’t like beer, Le BaB Opera also have a decent cocktail list, over 20 single malt whiskeys, and wine.

Le Mary Celeste

Le Mary Celeste opened in 2013, and remains one of the best places in Paris to visit if you want a sense of what’s exciting about French food and drink today. It’s a small venue, cantered around a long u-shaped bar, with tables inside out. Drinks and snacks are prepared at the bar, while more substantial dishes are prepared in the kitchen.

Creative cocktails are Le Mary Celeste’s calling card, and there’s also a sizeable wine list featuring drops from some of France’s most exciting young winemakers.

Food wise, it’s a small but mighty menu that champions small French producers and flavours, with flourishes of head chef Amandine Sepulcre-Huang’s Sino-Réunion and Moroccan heritage.

Aged Comte with clover honey is joined by things like terrine with pickles, veal tartare, and devilled eggs cured in soy and sesame and topped with pickled eggs and toasted wild rice.

Le Servan

French-Filipina sisters, Katia and Tatiana Levha’s restaurant, Le Servan, is an exciting spot that blends French ingredients and technique, laced with strands of Asia. Seasonal, organic, produce is directly sourced from sustainable local producers, and is allowed to shine through each dish.

It’s things like boudin noir (blood sausage) wontons with sweet chili sauce, and linguine-like strands of raw cuttlefish, topped with tempura perilla leaves, served atop a bed of gelée, Datterino tomatoes, and chilli sauce.

The wine list features an excellent selection of interesting bottles from some of France’s most exciting minimal intervention winemakers. Many are available by the glass.

Marché des Enfants Rouges

Marché des Enfants Rouges is Paris’ oldest food market, dating back to 1615. It’s a vibrant, buzzing market filled with rows of vendors selling all sorts of tasty things. There’s fruit and vegetable vendors, places selling cheese and wine, and places selling hot cooked meals.

You’ll find vendors cooking up food from around the world, many from countries that were once French colonies. Most of the vendors have stools if you want to eat in, and there are several tables and chairs dotted around the outskirts of the market.

Mokoloco

Mokoloco is a small restaurant by couple Omar Koreitem and Moko Hirayama. They are the duo behind excellent French-Lebanese bakery and café, Mokonuts, and Japanese bakery Mokochaya. While Mokonuts is all about food that blends the best of France and the Middle East, Mokoloco takes things in a different direction.

It’s where they invite residence chefs to showcase the food from their country of origin. It’s a way to get an exciting taste of Paris from some of the city’s young up-and-coming chefs. Residencies can last anywhere from a few weeks to several months, depending on the chef.

Motors Coffee

Motors Coffee is a great spot if you’re looking for excellent coffee in Paris. It’s a modern space where you’ll find an assortment of hot and iced espresso and filter based coffees, made using beans roasted by some of the world’s top coffee roasters. There’s a small pastry section if you’re looking for a bite to eat – all made in house and top notch.

Pierre Hermé

Pastry chef Pierre Hermé‘s cafes can be in several cities around the world these days, but the massive growth hasn’t impact the quality of the products. Their famed macarons are still some of the best you’ll find anywhere, and their chocolates, pastries, and teas are also excellent.

One of the best flavours, found in several creations at Pierre Hermé’s, is Ispahan. It’s a fragrant blend of rose, raspberry, and lychee.

Sadaharu Aoki

Pastry chef Sadaharu Aoki is known for using traditional Japanese ingredients and flavours in French-style pastries. His minimalist creations blend the two cultures brilliantly, resulting in some of the best baked treats and chocolates in Paris.

His eponymous café opened in 1998, and has since expanded to several locations in Paris and Japan. If you’re a fan of the flavours of either country, a visit to Sadaharu Aoki is a must. Two of my favourite creations are the matcha éclair, and the zen cake. The latter features sweet sesame pastry, a matcha macaron, matcha dacquoise biscuit layer, sesame cream, white chocolate cream, and cognac.

Tanat

Formerly known as Kawa, Tanat is one of the best place for coffee in Paris. They have three locations, and have ranked highly in several international coffee awards over the years. Tanat source their beans from the best coffee growers in the world, and roast all their beans in-house.

There’s a tight selection of hot and cold espresso and filter coffees on the menu, including multiple rotating single origin options.

Tiba

I chanced upon Tiba while wandering around Le Marais with a few hours to spare. I’m glad I did, as I was treated to a coffee experience on par with the best I’ve had in Melbourne.

The owner, Kevin, is so personable and passionate about coffee. I loved chatting with Kevin and his coffee-loving regulars, learning about Paris’ evolving coffee scene and roasters. There’s also high quality teas and matcha, and a small selection of excellent house-made cakes pastries.

Union Boulangerie

Union Boulangerie opened in 2021 and has become one of the best bakeries and patisseries in Paris. Everything is made using the highest quality French ingredients. There’s all of your classic boulangerie items like baguettes and sourdough loaves, along with things like cornbread, and Nordic rye breads. There’s also seasonal creations, like this summer’s spicy Merguez harissa baguette.

On the patisserie side, it’s favourites like croissants, macarons, and chocolate eclairs, and more seasonal and limited goodies, like a bûche with confit citrus and basil mousse. I wanted it all, but ended up settling on a pain au chocolate, chocolate éclair, and apple pie croissant for later. All three were outstanding.

Bonus Venues

I had a large list for my most recent trip to Paris, and wasn’t able to try everything on there. Here’s a few recommendations that I researched, and by all accounts are excellent, that I haven’t personally been to, that you should know about.

  • Pertinence – Modern French/Asian cuisine
  • Picotte – Inventive, regional bistro dishes
  • Racines des Prés – Seasonal, contemporary French food
  • Restaurant Au Passage – Modern French share plates
  • Septime – Modern French cuisine
  • Substance Cafe – Coffee

Have you been to Paris before? What are your favourite things to eat there, and your favourite place to eat them? What would you add to this Paris Food Guide?

Waroeng SS Spesial Sambal, Carlton

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MELBOURNE | Are you a fan of sambal? If so you, you might be aware of Indonesian chain, Waroeng SS Spesial Sambal. They have over 100 locations in their home country, and are known for their affordable, tasty food, and extensive selection of sambal. Last year, they opened their first Australian location, in Carlton. Curious, I popped in for What’s On Melbourne recently to check it our for myself.

The menu is a mix and match, DIY type situation. There’s 20 different sambals, including classics from Indonesia’s diverse regions, and house creations. Each sambal has a flavour profile and heat level listed, to help you choose what works for you. Choose a few different sambal, a few mains and side dishes, and you’re good to go. If you’re not sure what’s what, the staff will happily suggest sambal pairings for the dishes you’d like to eat.

Although heat is a key aspect of the Waroeng SS Spesial Sambal experience, you can choose your spice tolerance of each dish that you order. Popular dishes include the signature gobal gabul omelette (a fluffy omelette infused with shallots, spring onions, and chili), cah kangkung (fresh water spinach stir-fried with savoury seasonings and a touch of spice), and sticky grilled chicken breast or fried duck thigh. Cumi tepung, crispy fried baby squid, is another winner.

For sambal, I’m a big fan of the sambal terasi segar (mentah). It’s an intense and savoury sambal, made with raw shrimp paste, which adds pungent and aromatic depth to dishes. For something lighter, go for the sambal Bali matah. It’s a fresh, vibrant, aromatic sambal made with shallots, red chili, and lemongrass. If you’re a spice fiend, you’ll definitely want to try the sambal bawang cabe merah. Made with fresh spicy red chili and garlic, it’s the hottest sambal on the menu.

Waroeng SS Spesial Sambal is halal, so there’s no alcohol on the menu. It’s not an issue given the teas, juices, and smoothies on the menu. I highly recommend the avocado juice. It’s a refreshing, creamy, Indonesian classic, made with pure, fresh avocado and a little chocolate syrup. It’s very handy to have on the table when you inevitably accidentally go overboard with an overly ambitious, sambal overloaded bite.


Waroeng SS Spesial Sambal

398-400 Lygon Street
Carlton
Victoria 3053
Australia

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Sat, Tue – Thu: 11:00am to 9:00pm
Fri: 1:00pm to 9:00pm

Flying Air Asia Economy Class From Kuala Lumpur To Melbourne

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TRAVEL | AirAsia operate anywhere between four to seven flights a week between Kuala Lumpur and Melbourne, depending on the time of year. The Airbus Airbus A330-300 (“A333”) is currently used on the route, and travellers can choose between Economy, Premium Flex, and Premium Flatbed class. I flew basic Economy Class. The average flight time on this route is 8 hours and 10 minutes.

Check In

You can check in online, or using AirAsia’s app. You can enter in all relevant information before your flight, and receive an electronic boarding pass that you can print, access from the AirAsia app, or add to your Apple Wallet. There’s also the option of checking in at the airport using a kiosk or at a staffed counter.

If you have luggage to check in, you can print your bag tag(s) from the kiosks at the airport using the QR code generated during Mobile check-in. You can also head over to a staffed counter.

Loyalty

AirAsia’s loyalty program is AirAsia rewards, which is free to join.

There is no AirAsia lounge at Kuala Lumpur Airport, but guests travelling Premium Flatbed receive three hours complimentary access to the Plaza Premium Lounge.

Luggage

Being a low-cost airline, there are a variety of different combinations of ticket type and addons that will determine how much luggage you’re allowed to check in and bring on board.

All AirAsia Economy tickets allow you take on piece of cabin luggage on board, plus a small bag, with a total weight of no more than 7kg (15lb). You can purchase an additional 7kg cabin allowance when you purchase your ticket.

If you want to have checked luggage, you can upgrade your Economy ticket with a Value Pack. This gets you 20kg (44lb) of checked luggage. Premium Flex tickets included 20kg of checked luggage, and Premium Flatbed gets you a 40kg (88lb) allowance.

Service

I couldn’t fault the service on the flight from Kuala Lumpur to Melbourne. Staff were polite, and professional.

Cabin

The AirAsia Economy cabin on the A333 that flies from Kuala Lumpur to Melbourne features 365 seats, in a 3-3-3 layout. It’s a clean, well-maintained cabin, with a black, red, and white colour scheme, in line with AirAsia’s branding.

Seat

The pleather seat has dimensions of about 81cm x 42cm (32in x 16.5in). It’s a small seat, so you don’t have much in the way of leg room. The seats are narrower than most, and it’s noticeable. The padding is fine. I found it perfectly acceptable (I’m 176cm tall and weigh 78kg), but larger people might not enjoy it.

Like any economy seat, the seat doesn’t recline that far back, and not at all if you’re in the rear row. There’s a small pocket that you can fit a book or a few small items in.

There’s no in-seat power or connectivity.

Entertainment

There’s no in-flight entertainment on this route, and no seat-back screens. Make sure your devices are fully charged before you board.

Food

My basic Economy ticket did not include any food. Knowing this, I stocked up on some snacks and fresh fruit at the supermarket the day before, and this got me through. Water is provided, with more water available on request.

If you do want to purchase food and drink, there’s a decent selection of snacks, drinks, and hot meals to purchase. If you want one of the hot meals, you need to pre-book at least 24 hours before your flight. It’s quite well priced compared to what you usually pay on low-cost airlines.

Options for the hot meals include things like Nasi Lemak, Chicken Biriyani, Chicken Rice, and Mac & Cheese.

Amenities

There are no amenities on this flight.

Verdict

I have no complaints about my AirAsia basic Economy flight from Kuala Lumpur to Melbourne. There’s not much included in the basic fare, but it’s one of the cheapest ways to get from A to B. All of the things that matter are perfectly acceptable, and I’d happily fly AirAsia on this route again.