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Hakuyotei Curry, Kanda

Paul
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Hakuyotei Curry, Kanda

TOKYO | Yōshoku is the name given to Japanese dishes that have western origins, and one of the most popular is curry, or karē. Introduced by the British in the late 1860s, it was considered a luxury food. It wasn’t until 1905, when Japanese produced curry powder became widely available, that curry became affordable and popular for the average person.

One of the most popular ways to eat curry in Japan today is as katsu curry. There are multiple claims as to when and where a combination of curry rice and katsu (meat, usually pork, cutlet) was first served, but today it can be found all over. One of the best places to try katsu curry in Tokyo is Hakuyotei Curry, in Akihabara.

Hakuyotei opened in 2022, and is a small space. Walk inside and you’ll see a long open kitchen with counter seating, a few tables with seats, and a ticket machine to the side to place your order. The options are simple – classic pork cutlet curry, curry udon, fried shrimp curry, chicken masala curry, spinach curry, cheese curry, and curry rice. There’s combinations of the different proteins available, and the option of a raw or soft boiled egg on top.

I opted for the signature pork cutlet curry, and wasn’t disappointed. The panko crumbed and fried, high quality Sangen pork cutlet is served simply atop a bed of white rice and a generous amount of curry. The thick, rich, complex curry excites the tastebuds upon your first bite. This is enhanced by the spiciness of the curry. It’s not super spicy, but it’s a decent few levels spicier than you might expect.

The balance of sweet and spicy is perfect in my opinion, and you can tweak things with garnishes of salty fukujinzuke (a blend of finely chopped and pickled daikon, carrot, cucumber, eggplant, burdock, lotus, and young ginger) and sweet pickled rakkyo (spring onion bulb).

Hakuyotei Curry

1F, 1-1 Kanda Hanaokacho, Chiyoda City
Tokyo 150-0028
Japan

Telephone: (03) 6381 0323
E-mail: n/a
Website: n/a

Open
Mon – Sun: 11:00am to 9:00pm

Sushi Marufuku, Nishiogiminami

Paul
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Sushi Marufuku, Nishiogiminami

TOKYO | Chef Yutaka Isayama’s grew up around his parent’s long-running sushi restaurant in Tokyou and Higashi-Nagasaki. He had a keen interest in sushi from a young age, and trained as a sushi chef at the age of 25. He took over the family business in 2011 and opened Sushi Marufuku, focusing on the concept of aging seafood to extract certain flavours and texture. Today, Yutaka’s Michelin listed restaurant is considered one of the best places in Japan to eat sushi.

You’ll find Sushi Marufuki in the Tokyo neighbourhood of Nishi-Ogikubo. It’s a relatively quiet area by Tokyo standards, about 15 minutes west of Shinjuku by train. Just down from the train station, an unassuming door leads an intimate space with a low ceiling, that seats 10 at a long hinoki wood bench that curves around the open kitchen.

Across the approximately 20 course menu, you’re treated to sushi and nigiri, featuring the best quality seafood from across Japan, sourced primarily from the renowned fish markets of the Goto Islands. There’s also a few small dishes like a mushroom soup and chawanmushi served in between courses.

Each piece of seafood is aged from between one to four weeks. It’s either dry or vacuum aged, with the exact time and technique depending on the fish and the desired preparation. Sushi rice is sourced from small growers in Akita and Niigata, and blended with four types of vinegars.

As each dish is prepared in front of you, it’s difficult not to be mesmerised by the attention to detail and mastery of the process. Yutaka can speak some English, and is currently assisted by trainee chef Kanno Shun. Kanno has been at Sushi Marufuku for just under a year, and speaks very good English. An English menu is also printed out for non-Japanese guests.

Sushi Marufuku might be fine dining, but it’s by no means stuffy. Yutaka and the team are happy to answer any questions, and are well up for a bit of banter and a laugh.

To drink, I highly recommend leaving things to head sommelier, and Yutaka’s wife, Madoka. She’s an expert in all things sake, and will match a selection of Sushi Marufuku’s rare and unique sake collection perfectly with your meal. There’s an assortment of other options if sake’s not your thing.

Sushi Marufuku

3-17-4 Nishiogiminami, Suginami City
Tokyo 167-0053
Japan

Telephone: (03) 3334 6029
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Fri: 6:00pm to 11:00pm
Sat: 3:30pm to 11:00pm

Tamai, Nihonbashi

Paul
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Tamai, Nihonbashi

TOKYO | Japan is one of the best places in the world to enjoy eel. Unagi, or freshwater eel, is the most common kind of eel you’ll encounter, and it’s one of my favourites. There’s another variety though, that’s native to Tokyo bay, and that’s the leaner, more delicate, anago (saltwater conger eel). On my recent trip to Tokyo, I popped into anago specialists Tamai, to try what’s considered one of the best versions of anago in town.

Tamai is housed in a small, historic wooden building dating back to 1953, in Tokyo’s Nihonbashi neighbourhood. They have a few locations in Japan these days, and one in Taipei, but it’s hard to beat the character of the original. Their speciality is hakomeshi. It’s a term coined by Tamai to describe their way of serving anago in the Edo-mae (old Tokyo) style. That is, in traditional Japanese lacquered boxes, with assorted sides and condiments.

Choose your size (small, medium, or large), and cooking style (niage/simmered, yakiage/grilled, or ainose/both), and you’re good to go. Nigae anago is soft and delicate, while the glazed yakiage has a wonderful smokiness to it. I opted for both. All anago here is wild caught, with the exact region of sourcing following the seasons to ensure the highest quality.

Each hakomeshi contains your selected anago on rice, and is served with miso soup, freshly grated yuzu, sesame, wasabi, finely chopped leek, and sansho pepper. It’s recommended that you enjoy each bite as it is, and with different condiments, to appreciate how the flavour changes.

An option add-on, which I highly recommend, is the dashi made from anago bones. It’s a wonderfully smoky broth that you combine with a bit of rice and anago to form ochazuke. It’s another way of enjoying anago that opens up more flavour profiles.

There’s a few other things on the menu, like a large kaiseki with a selection of sides, tempura, nigiri, sashimi, and chirashi. To drink, it’s complimentary green tea, beer, sake, shochu, and soda. I recommend the modern-style Hito-nomi-zake junmai sake. It’s a fresh and clean, contemporary-style sake developed by Erika Watanabe of family-run Takarayama Sake Brewery.

Tamai (Nihonbashi)

3-7-4 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku
Tokyo 150-0001
Japan

Telephone: (03) 3272 3227
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Mon – Fri: 11:00am to 2:30pm, 5:00pm to 9:30pm
Sat – Sun: 11:00am to 2:30pm, 4:30pm to 9:00pm

Bar Rosella, Fitzroy

Paul
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Bar Rosella, Fitzroy

MELBOURNE | Rocco Esposito has been involved in Melbourne’s hospitality industry since 1998, the year he migrated to the city from his hometown of Puglia. He’s worked in some of the city’s top restaurants, and owned and operated Beechworth’s Wardens, and winery, Project 49, with his wife, Lisa Pidutti.

Bar Rosella, which opened almost three years ago, is the evolution and reincarnation of Rocco and Lisa’s Collingwood restaurant and events space, Project 49. I was recently invited in by Rocco to check it out. Bar Rosella is more intimate than Project 49, with rustic feel. A long and narrow interior leads to the rear courtyard, and upstairs to a private dining room. Polished concrete, natural materials, wine bottles, Italian produce and pantry items are hallmarks of the space.

On the menu, you’ll find a tight selection of classic dishes and seasonal creations, drawn from, and inspired by Rocco’s Puglian heritage. To begin, its things like cured meats (the mortadella and wagyu bresaola are particularly sublime), crumbed, fried, and meat stuffed olive all’ascolana; and fave e cicoria (fava bean purée with sauteed chicory). Rocco explains each dish with a detail and passion that can’t help but to excite you about what you’re about to eat.

Moving on to larger dishes, the signature spaghetti all’assassina is a must order. Spaghetti is cooked like risotto with passata stock, garlic, chilli and Napoli sauce. It’s a spicy, texturally diverse delight. The surprisingly light fried seafood medley, fritto misto di mare, is another great choice; so too, the smoky-grilled veal cutlet served with a loose tomato-based sauce and olives. For dessert, the classic choice of tiramisu, scooped tableside from a large tray, is a good one.

The wine list features Italian wines, and drops from Victoria’s High County, including Rocco’s own label. You’ll find lesser known varietals as well as the favourites, plus an assortment of aperitivos, digestives, and the like. I highly recommend you to drawn upon Rocco’s extensive knowledge (he spent many years as Vue de Monde’s wine director) and let him guide as to what will match best with your food.

Bar Rosella

229 Gertrude Street
Fitzroy
Victoria 3065
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9530 5839
E-mail: n/a
Website

Open
Tue – Fri: 12:00am to 4:00pm, 5:00pm to 10:00pm
Sat: 12:00am to 10:00pm

Learning to Make Burek With Burek On Wheels

Paul
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Learning to Make Burek With Burek On Wheels

MELBOURNE & SYDNEY | Lepa Flaiban founded her food truck, Burek On Wheels, and the end of Sydney’s lockdowns in 2021. It was a way of her sharing her passion for sharing her Balkan heritage, preserving tradition, and celebrating family.

From a small truck that would pop up at small events, selling a handful of traditional Balkan delicacies, Burek on Wheels has grown into something much more. Today, as well as still operating the food truck, Lepa caters for events and functions across Sydney. Additionally, she runs burek / pita making workshops. I checked out the first Melbourne workshop, which was recently held at new Windsor restaurant Eat Italiano by Pino.

I grew up eating burek (or cora as my family call it), but never made much of an effort to make it myself. Both of my babas (grandmothers) made great versions of it, and there was always a steady supply to enjoy. I always planned to learn how to make it, but you know the way these things go. I moved to London, then Melbourne, there were no written recipes, and the next thing you know so much time has passed, both babas have passed away, and there’s no more cora.

Over the past few months, inspired by my May trip to my ancestral village in Northern Greece, I’ve been perfecting my fillings, substituting handmade dough with filo pastry. While delicious, it’s not the same. At Lepa’s burek making workshop, I was determined to learn how to get the dough and pastry right. It’s a small group, with Lepa joined by her mother, baba to Lepa’s daughter, who was also there on the day.

It’s a fun experience, with lots of laughter, shared conversation amongst the participants, and plenty of family anecdotes. Unlike most cooking classes, you’re not given recipes during the class (you get the recipes at the end). Instead, you’re taught the way you’d learn at home, by feel and intuition. If you’re not used to cooking this way, don’t fret. Back yourself and know that Lepa and baba are there to help, with lots of tips and tricks.

While waiting for your burek to bake, you’ll listen to Balkan music, participate in some traditional dancing if you like, and enjoy a meal by the hosting venue.

Burek On Wheels Burek Workshops

Various Locations

Telephone: n/a
E-mail: n/a
Website

48 Hours In Novi Sad: Things To Do

Paul
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48 Hours In Novi Sad: Things To Do

NOVI SAD | Serbia’s second largest city, Novi Sad, is located less than an hour by train from the capital, and has a unique character of its own. It’s a diverse, open-minded city with a thriving arts scene. In 2022, Novi Sad was named the European Union’s Capital of Culture, bringing wider attention to what locals have long known.

It’s a historic city, with beautiful old architecture, and a picture perfect location on the Danube river. A great city to spend a long weekend in, here’s my list of things to do in Novi Sad.

Admire The City’s Murals

Novi Sad might be best known for its historic old town, but there’s a thriving modern art scene here too. This is perhaps most evident in the murals that can be found all over town. In the old city, murals tend to reflect the nature of the area, with historic themes and an art styles that are reminiscent of historic paintings

Outside of the old town, it’s more contemporary art, with a variety of styles and themes explored. In particular, be sure to walk along Dunavska, a notable street that’s home to several large-scale murals.

Check Out Petrovaradin’s Colourful Houses

Petrovaradin is a historic Novi Sad neighbourhood that was once a separate city. Just a short walk across the Danube, along Liberty Bridge, you’ll find a neighbourhood that’s most famous for the historic Petrovaradin Fortress. Be sure to explore the neighbourhood, as it’s full of beautifully maintained historic, colourful houses, shops, and cafes, lining narrow, cobblestone streets.

Explore Fruška Gora National Park

The oldest national park in Serbia, Fruška Gora, is located on the outskirts of Novi Sad. There’s a wide variety of activates, with plenty of cycle paths, hiking trails, swimming lakes, and fishing spots. The mountainous park home to 16 old Orthodox monasteries, some of which are hundreds of years old. It’s also home to several wineries.

A lot of what the park has to offer is accessible by foot or bike, but if you want to check out the monasteries and wineries, your best bet is go on a preorganised tour, or hire a car for the day.

Go To A Museum

If you’re a lover of art or history, Novi Sad has no shortage of museums for you to visit. The Museum of Vojvodina is the city’s history museum, and is home to over 400,000 artefacts, covering 70,000 years of the region’s history. Of particular note, is the museum’s collection of ancient Roman helmets.

The Gallery of Matica Srpska, established in 1847, is one of the largest and oldest galleries in Serbia. It’s known for its extensive collection of paintings from all eras of history, through to the present day.

If you want to learn more about the city itself, the City Museum of Novi Sad is well worth a visit. It’s filled with artefacts from the city’s past.

Purchase Local Produce At Futoška Pijaca

The centrally located Futoška market was established in the early 1900s and continues to be one of the best places in Novi Sad to purchase the best fresh produce from the region’s independent farmers, growers, and artisans.

Open every day of the week, the market is home to around 50 vendors. You’ll find things like amazing quality seasonal fruit and vegetables, dairy products, pasta, cured meats, honey and preserves, and more.

Another Novi Sad food market worth checking out is Riblja Pijaca.

Relax At Štrand

Spanning 700 metres along the Danube, the Štrand is an inner-city beach that locals flock to when the weather is nice. Whether it’s sunbathing on the sand, going for a swim, or having a drink and bite to eat at one of the area’s floating bars, or beachside cafes, spending time at the Štrand is a great idea.

Sample Regional Cuisine

It might only be an hour by train from Belgrade, but Novi Sad has a cuisine that’s distinct from the south of Serbia. This is due to the fact that Novi Sad was, for most of its history, part of the Austria-Hungary Empire, not the Ottoman Empire. Serbian classics like ćevapi, burek, and sarma can be found in Novi Sad, but you’ll also find things like goulash, and fis paprikas. The berries and cheeses from this region are outstanding too.

My favourite restaurant in town is Project 72, a wine bar and restaurant which puts and contemporary spin on traditional dishes and flavours to great effect. They also have an excellent selection of regional wines.

See A Place Of Worship

Novi Sad is one of Serbia’s most diverse cities, and this is reflected in three of its grandest, oldest places of worship. There’s the gothic-revival Catholic church that was completed in 1894, in the city’s main square; the, a pink-hued Orthodox Bishop’s palace which was built in 1901 to replace the 1741 old palace that was destroyed by fire; and the majestic Novi Sad Synagogue. The latter dates back to 1909, the fifth Synagogue on this site, and is today used as a cultural centre. All three are beautiful, interesting buildings that are worth a visit.

Visit Petrovaradin Fortress

Novi Sad’s most visited attraction is Petrovaradin Fortress. Nicknamed “Gibraltar on/of the Danube”, the current fortress dates back to 1692, with evidence suggesting that a fortress has existed on this site since at least 3000 BC.

Built from stone, and overlooking the Danube, it’s an imposing structure, famed for having never been infiltrated by an invading army. Be sure to explore not just the fortress, but the extensive network of tunnels underneath it.

If you’re in Novi Sad during the summer and love live music, you should try and get tickets to EXIT festival, which is held at the fortress each year. It’s one of the biggest music festivals in Europe, featuring a diverse range of indie and mainstream artists from across the globe.

Walk Through Novi Sad’s Old Town

Novi Sad’s Old Town (Stari Grad), is located in the heart of the city, and is a must visit for its beautiful architecture. Pastel painted historical buildings, cobblestone streets, and greenery dominate the old town, which is filled with cafes, bars, independent retail, and more.

The city was almost completely destroyed during the 1848/1849 revolution, so the architecture is predominantly that of the 19th century. Given the city’s place and importance in the Austrian and Austro-Hungarian Empires, the architecture is similar to that of nearby grand cities like Vienna and Budapest.

What To Eat In Northern Greece

Paul
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What To Eat In Northern Greece

THESSALONIKI | The largest city in Northern Greece, Thessaloniki, has a reputation as being Greece’s food city. Greeks have known this for a long time, with wider recognition coming in 2001. In that year, the city was the first in Greece to be designated as a UNESCO ‘City of Gastronomy’.

The diversity of Northern Greece’s food comes from its strategic location at the crossroads between Eastern Europe, Western Europe, and Asia. Over thousands of years, people from all over have moved through and settled in the area. Present day Northern Greece has been part of Ancient Greece, and the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman empires, in its history.

Greek, Turkish, Sephardic Jewish, and wider Balkan influences, amongst others, have all had a part to play in making the cuisine of Northern Greece what it is today. The land in northern Greece is very fertile, which lends itself to food that showcases the amazing fresh produce of the region. Some of the best wines in the country also come from this region.

As you’d expect, there’s plenty of crossover with the food of the south of Greece. What you’ll find with Northern Greek food, is that there are a lot more Turkish influences. This is due to the fact that Northern Greece was under the sphere of Ottoman influence for over a century longer than Southern Greece, and the population exchange with Türkiye of 1922. The latter saw 1.2 million Turkish citizens of Greek background, forcibly moved to Northern Greece, with a similar transfer happening the other way. This had a huge, lasting impact on Northern Greece’s cuisine.

On that note, you’ll find that several of the dishes in this list are popular and part of the cuisine of all of Greece, Türkiye, other Balkan countries, the Levant, and the Middle East. This list is about food and drink that are common and popular in Northern Greece, that you should enjoy while you are there. It’s not about claiming exclusive ‘ownership’ of a given dish. A shared culture and history is something that should be celebrated.

As well as specific dishes, I’ve included some of the place where you can enjoy these foods in Thessaloniki. For a full list on places to eat in Thessaloniki, check out my article, “Thessaloniki Food Guide: Where To Eat“.

Avgolemono

Avgolemono, which literally translates as “egg lemon”, is a broth (usually chicken) that’s mixed and thickened with lemon and egg yolk. It’s originally a Sephardic Jewish delicacy, and was introduced into Greek cuisine when Sephardic Jewish settled in Thessaloniki (which one had the largest Jewish population of any city in Europe).

In Greece, avgolemono is used as a basis of several dishes. One of the most popular is a chicken soup that has tender chicken meat used while making the broth, and white rice. It’s also popular with pasta and meatballs.

Baklava

Baklava is one of the most popular Ottoman desserts. There are many theories as to where it originated, none of which have been definitively proven. It likely originated from the Ancient Greek placenta cake, which evolved into Byzantine koptoplakous, which is the same as Turkish-style baklava.

Regardless of its exact origins, baklava is something that you need to try. It’s consists of layers of filo pastry, filled with chopped nuts, and sweetened with syrup or honey. A sweet, textural delight.

Bougatsa / Spanakopita

There are many names and regional variations of Turkish “pie” börek. As a consequence of hundreds of years of Ottoman rule and influence, you’ll find the flaky, layered pastry in the cuisine of many cultures.

In Northern Greece, the version you’ll most commonly encounter is bougatsa. It’s another dish that was introduced into the region with the 1922 population exchange between Greece and Türkiye. Interestingly, the name can be traced back to the ancient Roman pānis focācius. And yes, that’s also where the name “focaccia” came from.

One of the best places to eat bougatsa in Thessaloniki is Bougatsa Bantis. It’s a small bakery, owned and run by Philippos Bandis, whose carrying on the business that was started by his father Dimitris in 1969, and run by his dad Dimitris before Philippos took over. Visit for a variety of sweet and savoury options, with the classics by far the most popular. That’d by spinach, feta cheese, mince, and custard.

The spiral version of the dish that you might be more familiar with, spanakopita, can also be found in Northern Greece, but the pie-like bougatsa is more common.

Borrekitas de Meredjéna

Borrekitas de Meredjéna are a Northern Greek dish of Sephardic Jewish origin. They’re pies stuffed with eggplants and nogada (meatballs with walnut sauce).

Bougiourdi

This simple dish showcases the fresh produce of the region to great effect. It’s baked feta with fresh tomatoes, fresh hot peppers, and chilli flakes. Drizzled with olive oil and seasoned with oregano, it’s a spicy delight that goes wonderfully with some crusty bread or pita.

Dairy

Greece produces a wide array of fantastic dairy products. “Greek Yoghurt” is perhaps the most well known of these, but did you know that what people outside of Greece know as Greek yoghurt is just one type of strained yoghurt that’s enjoyed here. There’s drinking yoghurt, unstrained natural yoghurt, and more.

Of course, you can’t forget Greek cheese too. From the well known feta and halloumi, to regional Northern Greek-specific cheeses like the hard and salty kefalograviera, and creamy galotyri, it’s all worth trying.

In Thessaloniki, boutique supermarket, ERGON Agora, is a great place to try some of the best quality dairy that Greece has to offer. Also check out MIA Feta Bar. It’s a small eatery where you can try and purchase the full range of dairy products from local cheesemakers, Kourellas. You can also try Greek dishes that showcase their prodice.

Dried Fruits & Nuts

Dried fruits and nuts were an important part of the diet of the Ancient Greeks, and they continue to play an important part in Greek cuisine today. Go to any market of grocery store in Northern Greece, and you’ll find an assortment of dried fruits and nuts in large containers with scoops, to purchase by weight.

Grab a mix of things for a tasty snack to have on hand while you’re exploring. Popular dried fruits include apricots, figs, dates, and raisins. Popular nuts include walnuts, almonds, and pistachios. Kapani Market, the oldest fresh produce market in Thessaloniki, is a great place to buy some.

Florina Peppers

I have a section on fresh fruit and vegetables below, but Florina peppers warrant their own write up. The Florina pepper is cultivated in the region around the Northern Greek town of Florina. It’s a horn-shaped pepper, with a rich red colour and sweet flavour.

Florina peppers are used in a variety of dishes. Be sure to have them the traditional way to appreciate the full flavour of the pepper. That’s roasted over fire, hand-stripped, and served simply with extra virgin olive oil, salt, and vinegar.

Frappe

This popular iced coffee drink was accidentally invented in 1957 at the Thessaloniki International Fair, when Nestlé sales rep Giannis Dritsas wanted a coffee but didn’t have any hot water. He mixed granulated coffee with cold water and ice into a shaker and mixed it, and the rest is history. These days, frappes, which can also be made with cold milk instead of water, are one of the best things to drink in Greece on a hot summer’s day.

Greek / Turkish Coffee

People often wonder what the difference is between Greek and Turkish coffee. Some will argue that it’s about the size of the finely pulverised coffee grounds, or some other small difference, but the reality is that they are exactly the same thing.

Remember when some people in the USA started calling French Fries ‘Freedom Fries’ when France didn’t support the USA’s invasion of Iraq? Well a similar thing happened when tensions between Greece and Türkiye were at their highest in the 1970 after Turkey invaded Cyprus. The difference is, the movement really caught on, and just like that, Turkish coffee became known as Greek coffee in Greece.

Greek / Turkish coffee is a strong, bitter coffee made by boiling the coffee with water (and optional sugar) in a small pot called a briki, on the stove. There’s a light layer of foam on the top, and the grounds in the bottom of the cup when served. Whatever you want to call it, it’s well worth a try. Speciality coffee shop and cafe, Valenio, is a great place to try a contemporary take on Greek / Turkish coffee.

Greek Salad

Greek (or horiatiki) salad, is classic salad that you’ll find on the menu at almost every restaurant in Greece. It consists of pieces of tomatoes, cucumbers, onion, feta cheese, and Kalamata olives. The salad is dressed with salt, Greek oregano, lemon juice and olive oil.

Greek Wine

For a long time, most people’s knowledge of Greek wine was limited to poor quality retsina – pine resin-infused white wine. This ignored the fact that there was good quality retsina too, and plenty of other good wine in the area. Northern Greece is the wine region of the country, and there are wine makers making excellent wines using not just well known vareitals, but Greek varietals like Malagousia , Assyrtiko, Xinomavro, Mavroudi and Limnio.

Chilai is a wine bar in Thessaloniki that’s a great place to discover the best of Greek wine. Keep an eye out for drops from winemakers Ktima Gerovassiliou, Voulgari, Domaine Florian, and organic winery, Thymiopoulos.

Gyros

Possibly the best known Greek food, gyros is yet another dish that wasn’t really common in Greece until after 1922. For the uninitiated, it’s meat that’s been slow cooked on a vertical spit and carved off in thin slices. In Northern Greece, the most common meats are pork and chicken.

You can enjoy the meat by itself, with a typical side of raw onions and salad, or with all of these things, chips, and some tzatziki and mustard, wrapped in a warm pita.

It’s hard to go past the gyros at Mimis, a no nonsense gyros spot in the centre of town that’s been a favourite amongst locals since opening in 1974. Named after the original owner, today Mimis is run by his son, Giorgaros.

Halva

Originating in Persia and spreading throughout the Indian subcontinent, Central Asia, and the Middle East, Halva refers to an assortment of dense, sugar-based desserts. The version that’s popular in Greece is sesame halva. It’s primary ingredients are tahini and sugar, with many different flavours made by adding all sorts of ingredients to the base. My favourite versions are original, chocolate, and almond.

A softer, semolina-based version, is also popular during festivals and special occasions.

Koulouria

Dating back to Byzantime times, koulouria are bagel-like, sesame encrusted bread, that can be found all over Northern Greece. The plain version is the most common, but you can find all sorts of koulouria, sweet and sour, made with different fillings and ingredients added into the dough. Try it with some taramasalata or tzatziki to dip in.

Kourabiethes

Kourabiethes are an almond-based shortbread biscuit popular throughout the Balkans and Middle East. The Greek version is usually flavoured with metaxa brandy, vanilla, or mastika, and rolled in icing sugar.

Local Fruits & Vegetables

Owing to its mountainous location and volcanic soil, the produce of Northern Greece is renowned for its quality. Walk through markets, and you’ll be amazed by the vibrancy, quality, and affordability of the fresh produce on offer. In cities and towns, you’ll find street vendors who have come in from their farms to sell the freshest produce direct. Things like tomatoes, peppers, berries, and more are some of the best you’ll try, anywhere.

Loukoumi / Turkish Delight

The exact origin of this sweet, gel-like starch sugar based dessert is up for debate, with Turkey, Greece, Persia, and several Arab cultures all staking a claim. Nobody knows for sure, but what’s clear is that the dessert is enjoyed throughout the former Ottoman Empire, produced in its modern form since at least the early 18th century.

Popular flavours include rose, lemon, mastic, and bergamot orange, and it’s not uncommon for things like pistachios, almonds, and walnuts to mixed through them. You’ll usually find them sold in bite sized cubes, dusted with icing sugar.

Moussaka

Originating in the Middle East, moussaka was adapted into its Greek form by French-trained Greek chef Nikolaos Tselementes in the 1920. It’s a lasagne-like baked casserole that replaces lasagne sheets with sauteed eggplant. In between each layer of eggplant, you’ll find bechamel and meat (usually lamb or beef). Moussaka is comfort food at its best.

Mussels

The Thermaic Gulf is Greece’s premier mussel growing region. Fresh mussels from the area are easily accessible here, and are delicious. They’re used in an assortment of dishes and are a must try. One of my favourite mussel dishes can be found at Thessaloniki restaurant, Mourga. It sees fresh mussels served with angel hair pasta in a light, avgolemono broth.

Ouzo

Arguably Greece’s most well known spirit, ouzo is a dry, anise flavoured spirit that was introduced to Greece with the population transfer of the 1920s. It’s quite a strong product (usually around 40-45% ABV), and popular throughout Greece. The best way to enjoy ouzo is as an aperitif, with a few drops of water to help release the flavours, or over ice.

Pourakia

Translating as “little cigars”, pourakia come in many forms. There’s the version that’s essentially a rolled, cylindrical version of baklava which is great, but what I’m referring to are the crispy wafer cylinders, filled with things like hazelnut praline, and coated in chocolate.

Chatzifotiou is an artisan patisserie and chocolatier that’s been around since 1946, and do several versions of pourakia. It’s also a great spot to visit for a variety of other Greek chocolates, cakes, and pastries.

Rizogalo

Rizogalo is a creamy rice pudding that’s made by cooking rice with milk on the stove, with the addition of sugar and cinnamon. Sometimes, lemon or orange is added, and even egg. Regardless of the version you try, it’s a delight, enjoyed hot or cold.

Soutzoukakia Smyrneika / Izmir Kofte

One of the most iconic dishes that’s both Greek and Turkish are Soutzoukakia Smyrneika, or Izmir Kofte as they’re called in Turkey. They were created by Greeks living in Smyrna (now Izmir), and made their way to Greece with the 1922 population exchange. They’re oblong shaped beef meatballs, mixed with garlic, sometimes onion, and spiced with cumin and cinnamon. Traditionally served with a side of boukovo (chilli flakes) and salt, they’re the ultimate comfort food.

The version at traditional taverna, Διαγώνιος 1977, are hard to beat, and are what the taverna is known for (along with their brilliant pork gyros).

Souvlaki

Souvlaki refers to skewered meats that are (usually) barbecued over an open flame. Beef, pork, lamb, and chicken are all popular options and, like gyros, they’re generally served with an compliment of sides like sliced raw onions, tzatziki, and fresh tomatoes.

Trigona Panoramatos

More commonly simply called ‘trigona’, this custard dessert originates form the Thessaloniki suburb of Panorama. It’s creamy, smooth vanilla custard, served inside a flaky, syrup soaked cone made from layers of filo pastry. One of the best places to try it is Trigona Elenidi. The family-run pastry shop is originally from Panorama, and they have a branch in the heart of Thessaloniki. They’ve been making trigona the same way for generations..

Tsipouro / Tsikoudia

Produced in Northern Greece since the 14th century, tsipouro is similar to ouzo, but made exclusively by distilling grapes (ouzo can use any base). Tsipouro doesn’t contain anise by itself, however you can find versions with anise added. There are also barrel aged versions which are common, that are worth a try. It’s enjoyed in the same way that ouzo is, with a few drops of water, or over ice.

Tzigerosarmas

Tzigerosarma is a traditional Thracian dish, the region of which spans what today is part of Northern Greece, Bulgaria, and European Türkiye.

Traditionally eaten during spring, tzigerosarma is a combination of rice, chopped lamb liver, and herbs, wrapped into a ball with caul/membrane fat. Baked in the oven, it’s a juicy, wonderfully flavoured, and balanced dish that’s an absolute delight to eat.

You can find tzigerosarma at traditional Greek tavernas. I’m a fan of the one at Ouzeri Tsinari, in Thessaloniki.

What are some of your favourite Greek foods to eat? Let me know if there’s something I need to try that’s not on this list. For a full list on places to eat in Thessaloniki, check out my article, “Thessaloniki Food Guide: Where To Eat“.

Quincy Hotel, Melbourne

Paul
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Quincy Hotel, Melbourne

MELBOURNE | Melbourne CBD’s West End is growing fast. Formerly quiet parts of the city are becoming busy, and there are plenty of great new options for lovers of good food and drink in this part of town. With this growth, has come an increase in accommodation options in the area. One of these is, Quincy Hotel Melbourne, TFE’s first hotel under the ‘Quincy’ label, in Australia. I recently visited and stayed overnight as a guest of the hotel.

Location

Quincy Hotel Melbourne is in a good location in the heart of Melbourne’s CBD. Being in the West End, you’re just up the road from Southern Cross Station, which is handy if you need to get to and from Tullamarine Airport using the SkyBus. Close proximity to the station is also handy if you have a country train to catch. Marvel Stadium is a short walk away, and you can easily pop across the Yarra into Southbank and the Crown.

There are loads of great restaurants and bars withing walking distance, and you’ve got access to several tram routes that will get you to other parts of town quickly. Flinders Street station is just a 13 minute walk, or 8 minute tram ride away.

Rooms

Quincy Hotel Melbourne contains 241 rooms. They’re roughly split into three types – Attitude, Skyline, and Quincy. The exact size and amenities in each room depends on the room type you’re in.

The rooms are well thought out, and make good use of the hotel’s narrow footprint. All have a fresh, modern, colourful design, and feature things like a pull out room safe and decent sized wardrobe, and velvet chairs. The mini bar features South East Asian snacks and coffee pod machine, a large TV with free to air channels and music, and Chromecast, and a plush, comfortable bed with nice pillows. If the default pillow isn’t to your tastes, there’s a pillow menu on offer so you can get just the right one for you.

Like the main room, bathroom are small, but well designed. There’s a decent sized dual regular and rain combo shower, and depending on the room, a bathtub. The mirror is large, and there are refillable Kevin Murphy toiletries, and toilet paper from Who Gives A Crap.

All rooms come with free WiFi, and if you’re on level 10 or higher, you can expect decent views of the city.

Amenities

You’ll find all of the important amenities at Quincy Hotel Melbourne. There’s a heated rooftop swimming pool, and a small gym with cardio and weights equipment. A dry cleaning service and room service are offered, and there’s a dedicated events space if you have an event to plan.

If you have a car, there’s off-site undercover parking available, charged at $35 per night.

Eat & Drink

There’s two options for food and drink at Quincy – restaurant Salted Egg, and rooftop bar, The Q. The menu of both is from ex-Chin Chin and Jimmy Liks chef Adam Woodfield, who has eaten and travelled extensively through South East Asia.

Salted Egg is a Thai-leaning, South East Asian restaurant offering a diverse range of dishes from, and influenced by, the region. Think smoked duck betel leaf with jeaw, lemongrass, mint and coriander; son in law eggs with yellow bean sauce, green mango and herb salad; and kao soi curry with chicken cutlet, roasted chilli oil, and pickled mustard greens. The latter is a particular highlight.

Be sure to check out the house cocktails, inspired by the same flavours that inspire the food menu. You can also try different inspired cocktails at rooftop bar The Q. There’s impressive views from the 28th floor, tasty drinks, and a great snack menu. Try the char sui loaded fries, and the zesty Thai fried chicken ribs doused in fish sauce.

The Verdict

Quincy Hotel Melbourne is a great option for those looking for a modern, fun hotel in Melbourne’s West End. It’s well located if you’ve got something on in this part of town, and gives you easy access to the rest of the best that Melbourne has to offer. Rooms are small, but they get all of the important things right. The comfortable bed and pillows in particular, are much appreciated, and the food and drink offering is solid.

Quincy Hotel Melbourne

590 Flinders Lane
Melbourne
Victoria 3000
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9492 7400
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Molli, Abbotsford

Paul
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Molli, Abbotsford

MELBOURNE | Nicholson Street in Abbotsford in one of the inner city suburb’s most interesting streets. It’s an architecturally diverse, mixed use street, where old worker’s cottages, historic pubs, new apartments, nondescript warehouses and offices, all combine to form a snapshot of the area’s past and present. One of the newest additions to the street is Molli, from Nathan Toleman’s Mulberry Group (Lilac, Dessous, Hazel). I was recently invited in to check it out.

Molli is a neighbourhood bar and bistro that’s warm and welcoming, with a vintage, French-bistro inspired feel. There’s dark timber flooring, light wood art deco furniture and fittings, plush green banquet seating, and a curved green marble bar.

Like Mulberry Group’s other venues, the focus is on sharing good food and drinks, with a menu that showcases top quality, seasonal, Victorian produce. Where possible, produce is sourced direct from the group’s Common Ground farm, and Molli’s rooftop herb garden. Head chef Aleksis Kalnins has come across from Hazel to head up the kitchen, and you’ll recognise flourishes from his cooking there.

Snacks are the star of the menu. BBQ scallops come doused with punchy fermented bullhorn butter. Order them, along with the charred asparagus, shio koji, and cured egg yolk; and a stout custard and pickled onion tartlet.

Hand made casarecce pasta, with a fermented tomato sauce and lots of shaved parmesan, is an umami bomb. If it’s steak you’re after, get the Westholme wagyu rump cap MB 4-5, with piperade. Barbecued over cherry wood in a Josper oven, it’s a delight.

Also over from Hazel (and Dessous) is Kayla Saito, who has but together a tidy, sustainability focused drinks list. Wines are diverse, showcasing interesting and independent local and international winemakers. House cocktails, developed in collaboration with the kitchen, feature house ferments and preserves, with a number of interesting non-alc options too.

Next door, you’ll find Molli’s sister break fast and lunch spot, Little Molli. Visit for brekkie rolls, pastries, sandwiches, and salads. There’s also a little retail section filled with things like Falco bread, cheese and charcuterie, and pickles, for home.

Molli

20 Mollison Street
Abbotsford
Victoria 3067
Australia

Telephone: (03) 8597 0981
E-mail: [email protected]
Website

Open
Wed – Thu: 5:00pm to 11:00pm
Fri – Sat: 12:00pm to 11:00pm
Sun: 12:00pm to 5:00pm

What To Eat In Serbia

Paul
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What To Eat In Serbia

BELGRADE | Serbian cuisine isn’t as well known as a lot of other European cuisines. Despite this, when people try Serbian food for the first time, they’re struck at how familiar some of it is. Serbia, being in the Balkans has long been a geographically strategic place. At various times throughout its history, the area has been controlled by empires from the West, East, and South. Each has left its imprint on the country’s culture, and its food.

Ancient Hellenistic, Byzantine, and Ottoman Empires have all had an undeniable impact on Serbia’s cuisine. Ottoman influences in particular, have shaped not just Serbian cuisine, but wider Balkan cuisine. Eat your way through Serbian favourites, and you’ll find particular similarities with Turkish, Middle Eastern, and Levantine food. Serbian cuisine too, has influenced those cuisines. It’s a fascinating history, and the regional variations are a joy to discover and enjoy.

Meat is a big part of Serbian cuisine, due to the country’s pastoral heritage and customs. The mountainous highlands and climate of the country meant that historically, raising livestock and planting basic grain, was more practical and bountiful than growing vegetables. Of course, these days, you can easily find great fruit and vegetables. While not a vegan and vegetarian hot spot, there are options if that’s what you’re looking for.

Beyond specific delicacies, I’ve included some of the place where you can enjoy these foods in Belgrade. For a full list on places to eat in Belgrade, check out my article, “Belgrade Food Guide: Where To Eat“.

Ajvar

Ajvar is a super popular Serbian relish/condiment made from red peppers that are roasted (ideally over fire), deseeded, minced, and cooked. Sunflower or a similar neutral oil, along with salt, are added. The traditional version, mild with no additional ingredients, is the most popular in Serbia, but there are regional varieties. A version with eggplants is popular, as is a spicier version.

Burek

Burek is common throughout the former Ottoman empire. It’s a pie, consisting of multiple layers of thin, flaky, filo-like dough. Its origins are mixed, with similarities to Turkish börek, Persian burak, Eastern Roman (Byzantine) tyritas plakountas, and even further back, the Ancient Greek and Roman pastry dish ‘placenta’.

Fillings can be sweet or savoury, and there are plenty of regional variations to enjoy. In Serbia, burek is made from alternating layers of filling and dough, in a large round baking pan, and cut into slices. A plain version with no filling is popular, as is a white cheese version, and a version with stewed minced meat and onions. Fillings like cheese and spinach, potato, sour cherries, and more are also popular.

Compared to other regional varieties, Servian burek tends to be heavier, and oilier, with a greater emphasis on meat fillings. Burek is popular at breakfast, and often enjoyed with a plain, natural drinking yoghurt. My favourite places to try it is Pekara Trpković. They have a great selection of fillings, and use different fats for the pastry depending on the filling.

Ćevapči

I grew up eating ćevapi, the famed grilled skinless sausage of the Balkans. Originating around 1500 as a variant of the Ottoman Turkish kebab, today the dish is a typical street food throughout the Balkans.

Regional variations are abundant, mainly amounting to differences in meat content and spices. In Serbia, ćevapi really became popular around the 1860. Most versions contain beef mince, but Serbian ćevapi (or ćevapčići as they’re often called here) can contain beef, lamb, pork, or any combination of the three.

You’ll find some of the best ćevapi in Belgrade at Ćevap kod Dekija. The most popular option is the classic. A serve of 5 or 10 of their smoky grilled ćevapi inside house made lepinja (flatbread) with diced onion. Be sure to grab a serve of their spicy ajvar to go with each bite.

Gibanica

Technically a kind of strudel, gibanica is a pastry dish that’s one of the most popular deserts in Serbia. It consists of light layers of crumpled filo pastry, filled with various fillings. The most popular and common filling is the traditional one of cottage cheese, eggs, milk, and kajmak.

Karađorđeva šnicla

Created in by Josip Broz Tito’s personal chef, Mića Stojanović, in 1956 or 1957, Karađorđeva šnicla is a twist on Chicken Kyiv. Despite a relatively modern dish, it’s well and truly established itself as a staple of Serbian cuisine, and can be found in traditional restaurants all over the country.

Traditional Karađorđeva šnicla consists of thin pounded veal, pork, or chicken steak, filled with kajmak, rolled with flour and eggs, then rolled with breadcrumbs. It’s fried until golden, and served with tartrate sauce and mayonnaise, and a wedge of lemon.

Common sides include fries, roasted red pepper, green beans, and steamed vegetables. There are also regional variations, which use additional fillings such as ham, pickles, and peppers.

Kajmak

Kajmak is a dairy food, similar to clotted cream, that’s popular throughout the Balkans and the Middle East. It’s a rich, thick, creamy delight, enjoyed best within two days of being made. In Serbia, it’s usually enjoyed as a filling in desserts, or plain inside freshly baked pita for breakfast.

Krempita

Krempita is Serbia’s take on the the vanilla slice. Layers of puff pastry are filled with a thick custard, and sprinkled with icing sugar. Some places serve a version with meringue crème as well as custard, but the pure custard version is by far the most common.

Knedle

Knedle are ball-shaped Serbian potato-dough doughnuts that trace their origins to the Austro-Hungarian Empire. They can be filled with an assortment of sweet and savoury fillings. Plum is one of the most traditional and popular fillings, with flavours like apple, strawberry, mushroom, and cottage cheese also popular.

A great place to try kndele is Ferdinand Knedle. It’s a popular knedle chain with several convenient locations. They have all of the classic flavours, plus flavours like passionfruit, choc-orange, and Nutella.

Ljutenica

Similar to ajvar, but less popular than it in Serbia, is ljutenica. It’s a red pepper-based vegetable relish/condiment that’s chunkier than ajvar. It contains a small amount of tomatoes, while ajvar does not. While both ajvar and ljutenica can be mild or spicy, the former tends to be more common in its mild form, versus the latter which is more commonly spicy. In fact, the word “ljuto”, where ljutenica gets its name from, means hot/spicy.

Mućkalica

The ultimate winter warmer, mućkalica is a hearty Serbian barbecued meat and vegetable stew. There’s no hard and fast rule about what meats and vegetables can be used, with everyone having their own version. One of the most popular versions is Leskovacka mućkalica. It contains diced pork shoulder, bacon, tomato, roasted red pepper, onion, garlic, Vegeta, and paprika. Be sure to have some lepinja handy to mop up all of the wonderful liquid from the bottom of your bowl.

Offal

A long history of rearing livestock and making the most of all parts of the animal means that offal dishes are a part of Serbia’s food. More eaten at home rather than at restaurants, Serbia’s offal dishes are well worth a try.

Typical tripe dishes include shkembe chorba, a herbed, garlicy stomach and onion soup; crevca (grilled intestine that’s popular as a bar snack); and crumbed, deep fried tripe.

Palačinke

Palačinke are thin, crepe-like pancakes that can be traced back to ancient Greco-Roman times. Fried in a pan with butter or oil, they’re traditionally rolled with jam. My grandparents made me palačinke all the time while growing up. My favourite fillings were, and still are, strawberry jam, Nutella, and honey. Less traditionally, I also enjoy them with some pandan kaya.

Pljeskavica

At its most basic, pljeskavica is simply a grilled burger patty, but that’s underselling things. Different meats can be used, combined with things like chopped onions, garlic, ground pepper, and cheese. It’s usually served with lepinja.

The version at Restoran Prolece contains a combination of beef and chicken mince, cheese, and garlic. It’s served simply with diced raw onion, chips, and lepinja, and is delicious. For a more street food version to enjoy as a burger with your choice of fillings, try the pljeskavica at Čaki.

Podvarak

Popular throughout the Balkans during winter, is the sour cabbage/sauerkraut dish, podvarak. It contains the aforementioned cabbage, mixed and oven baked with finely diced onions, and meat. Pork or chicken are the usual meats of choice, and the dish is typically seasoned with diced fried bacon, garlic, and paprika.

A similar Serbian dish, that’s slow cooked in a large pot rather than baked, is svadbarski kupus (“wedding cabbage”). You’ll typically find it at weddings and other large events. Keep an eye out for it if there are any big festivals on when you’re in Serbia.

Prebranac

If you’re a fan of baked beans, you’ll love prebranac. It’s a hearty stew consisting of baked beans cooked with onions, garlic, sweet paprika, bay leaves, and sunflower oil. It’s served both as a vegetarian dish, and as a meat version. Smoked sausage is a particularly popular addition.

Punjene Paprike

Literally translating as ‘stuffed pepper’, punjene paprike sees peppers filled with a stuffing of rice, mince, onion, herbs, and spices. It’s slow cooked in the oven, in a tomato based sauce. Everyone has their own version of the dish – my favourite is the version that uses smoked paprika and/or smoked pork hock in the sauce to add another layer of depth to the flavour.

Rakija

No list of Serbian foods to try would be compete without rakija. Rakija is a type of fruit brandy that’s popular throughout the Balkans. It can be made with all kinds of fruits and additions, and comes in various strengths. Sljivovica, or plum rakija, is the most popular version in Serbia.

A great place to try rakija is Rakia Bar. Located in the centre of town, you can find all kinds of rakija from local mainstream and independent distilleries. There’s traditional versions to try, and more experimental ones.

Sarma

Sarma is a traditional Ottoman dish made by wrapping vegetable leaves around a meat and rice-based filling. In Serbia, you’ll generally see cabbage used as the wrap, with grapevine leaves also being used in the summer. The typical filling in Serbia is the same as that used in punjene paprike, a few sections above this.

A vegan version, traditionally eaten during Lent, can be found at many places year-round now, for those with dietary requirements.

Srpska Salata

The Serbian version of shopska salad (also popular in Serbia), contains, at a minimum, finely diced tomatoes, cucumbers, and onions, seasoned with salt and olive oil or sunflower oil. Some versions contain white vinegar, while others are topped with diced feferon, a chilli similar to Cayenne. Traditionally cheese isn’t used in srpska salata, but it’s not uncommon to see an option to add some sirene (salty white cheese) to it.

Turšija

The word turšija originates from the Persian word torshi. It refers to the pickled vegetables common throughout the Balkans and Middle East. Enjoyed as a snack, or as a side with meals, Serbian turšija typically includes vegetables like cauliflower, carrot, cabbage, cucumber, celery, and red pepper.

What are some of your favourite Serbian foods to eat? Let me know if there’s something I need to try that’s not on this list. For a full list on places to eat in Belgrade, check out my article, “Belgrade Food Guide: Where To Eat“.

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