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10 Tips You Should Know Before Visiting Iran

Iran is one of the most misunderstood countries in the world. From the Islamic Revolution in 1979, through to the Iran-Iraq war between 1980-1988 and the dubbing of Iran as a member of the “Axis of Evil” by US President George W Bush in 2002, people in the West have never really had the opportunity to know what Iran is really about. There might be a lot of geopolitical tensions between Iran and the United States, and a lot of accusations being thrown around by both parties, but in recent years, access to Iran has become easier than it has been in a long time. The doors to this ancient country are opening slowly and when the opportunity arose to visit in May this year, Lauren and I didn’t hesitate to say yes.

There is a lot of information about Iran out there, however most of it is either false or out of date. As a visitor to Iran, there are several things that you want to know before you arrive. There’s a lot to discuss, and over the coming months we will be putting a lot of Iran related content up on The City Lane. We loved our time in Iran and want to show you the country through our eyes, dispelling many myths and misconceptions along the way.

In our first Iran article, we want to share with you our top 10 tips you should know before visiting Iran.

Getting A Visa

top 10 visiting iran tips you should know travel advice

As with any country, the visa requirements for entry into Iran differ depending on the passport that you hold. If you are from Australia, New Zealand, Germany, The Netherlands, France, or Japan, things are really easy – you can either apply for a 20 day tourist visa from the Iranian embassy in your country or you can get a visa on arrival. That’s right, Aussies and Kiwis can rock up to any airport in Iran without a visa and get one then and there.

If you are a citizen of the United States, Canada, or the United Kingdom, the visa on arrival option isn’t available to you. The only way you’ll be able to get a tourist visa is by taking part in an “official” tour of Iran. I could go into more detail on the specifics of visa requirements for visiting Iran but there’s no need as my friend and fellow travel writer Nate has covered this in a rather extensive article over on Yomadic, which you can read here.

If you find that you’re having too much of a good time in Iran and that you’d like to spend more time in the country, you can easily get your tourist visa extended at an immigration office in one of Iran’s major cities. By all accounts the immigration office in Shiraz is one of the best for this.

Also a word of advice to Australians, the Iranian embassy in Canberra do not like to answer their phones or respond to e-mails. Just make sure that you fill in the paperwork correctly and you’ll be fine. When we received our visas the embassy actually spelled Lauren’s surname incorrectly. We tried to contact the Iranian embassy several times (87 times in fact) but this was to no avail. In any case, we arrived in Iran and the mistake on the visa was a non-issue – Lauren got into Iran no with problems.

Money

top 10 visiting iran tips you should know travel advice

The currency used in Iran is the Iranian Rial. It’s a currency whose exchange rate can vary wildly and what I write today could be completely inaccurate in a few weeks time. When we travelled in May 2015, the official exchange rate was USD$ 1 -> IRR 29,234. The thing is, you never pay attention to the real exchange rate. Most currency exchanges we visited, including one at Tehran’s Imam Khomeini International Airport, were offering a rate closer to USD$1 -> IRR 33,000, which was significantly better than the “official” rate.

There are 2 places where you can get your money changed in Iran. The first are currency exchanges just like any other country while the second are black market currency dealers – you’ll see these guys on the sidewalk with briefcases full of cash open and a hive of activity around them. They aren’t dodgy as such but they aren’t technically official either. Our advice is to shop around and get a rate that you feel comfortable with. You’ll get an idea very early on as to what a “good” rate is and you should use this as a ballpark guide for the rest of your trip.

On the topic of currency, things can get confusing because of the exchange rate (it takes a while to get used to the fact that USD$35 makes you a millionaire) and because there are 2 measures of money used. Although there is only one kind of note, the Rial, prices are sometimes expressed in Rial and other times in Toman. 10 Rial = 1 Toman. This does cause some confusion – the best we can say is to use your judgment. If a price seems too good to be true, that’s probably because it is. When in doubt, the safe bet is to assume that the price is listed in Rial – if you hand over what you think you’re meant to be paying in Rial you’ll soon be corrected, and at that time you can choose whether or not you want to continue with the transaction.

There are banks, automatic teller machines, and credit card facilities everywhere in Iran but unfortunately these can’t be accessed by foreigners due to US sanctions. As a foreigner you’ll need to bring cash, and the best currency to bring with you is US Dollars or Euro. How much cash do you need? Well as a guide, not including accommodation, you shouldn’t need to budget any more than USD $35 per person, per day at the aforementioned exchange rate. That’s right, Iran is a very cheap country to visit. We didn’t hold back on what we spent while there for 2 weeks and we returned home with more than half of the money that we’d brought over.

Dress Code

top 10 visiting iran tips you should know travel advice

Most of the information that you find on the Internet about the dress code in Iran is quite vague, and often incorrect. The reason for this is that the rules keep on changing. Currently, things are better than they have been in the past. For men, the dress code is simple – jeans or trousers and any kind of top. I was in jeans and either a t-shirt or collared shirt for the entire trip. The main thing that’s important for men is that the legs are covered – no shorts guys. Footwear can be whatever you like – open shoes such as sandals are perfectly acceptable.

top 10 visiting iran tips you should know travel advice

For women, things get a bit more complicated. As a general rule, relatively loose fitting tops that cover your arms and come down to your mid thigh or knees is what’s required. Trousers are essential. Your hair must be covered with a headscarf, however your face is allowed to be fully exposed – the burka is not commonly seen in Iran, and it’s usually a headscarf or hijab that you see, along with the chador in more conservative areas.

In the big cities like Tehran, Shiraz and Isfahan, you see women pushing the limits of what’s allowed in the country. Don’t be fooled by what the western media tells you – Iranian women are strong willed and independent and like to push boundaries. You’ll see women wearing the mantou – a sort of fitted coat, bright shoes and head scarves that only cover the back half of the head. Look around to see what the local women are wearing and dress accordingly. We’d read a lot about the “fashion police” in Iran, who patrol the streets looking to scold women who don’t dress conservatively enough however during our 15 days in the country, we only encountered these police on one occasion. In a very conservative rural town in the middle of dessert we were waiting outside of a mosque and the women in our group were instructed that they needed to pull up their head scarves so that all of their hair was covered. Just like any other country in the world, things get more conservative as you leave the bigger cities.

Internet

There’s no argument here – the Internet in Iran is pretty terrible. In the major cities things aren’t too bad when they are working, and sometimes you can get a connection that’s about the same speed as an ADSL1 connection. Unfortunately, these connections aren’t stable and you can expect dropouts several times during your browsing session. Outside of the major cities things get even worse and you’ll be longing for the day when you can get a full 10 minutes on the Internet at a decent speed which can happen, but is a rare occurrence.

The poor Internet in Iran is exasperated when you use a VPN. There are several sites that are banned in Iran, the most obvious for Westerners being Twitter and Facebook (Instagram is allowed). If you want to access these services while in the country you’ll need a VPN. It’s no secret that Iranians do access these services and it’s not unusual for locals to give you their Facebook details so you can connect with them. It’s one of those situations where the government officially bans the services but turns a blind eye to the fact that they are being used. I won’t give advice on which specific VPNs you can use for obvious reasons however when you get to Iran finding out this information will not be an issue – just be prepared for the fact that things will be slow.

Alcohol

top 10 visiting iran tips you should know travel advice

The rule when it comes to alcohol in Iran is simple. It’s illegal, it’s banned, don’t think about it. Officially recognised non-Muslim minorities are allowed to produce alcoholic beverages for their own consumption and for religious rites (for example Armenians and Assyrians) and interestingly statistics show that alcohol consumption in Iran is the third highest in Middle Eastern, Muslim dominated countries behind Turkey and Lebanon. Make of this what you will but our advise is to neither drink nor seek out drink- it’s really not worth the risk.

What you will see in every drinks fridge in cafes and restaurants across the country are non-alcoholic malt beverages. Popular brands include Istak, Delstar, Hey Day and Shams. The original flavours are pretty bad tasting however the fruit flavoured options, such as lemon, peach and tropical are actually quite tasty, although they have more in common with soda rather than beer. The bottles/cans and labels certainly look like beer, but beer this is not.

Safety

top 10 visiting iran tips you should know travel advice

Despite what the mainstream Western media tells you, Iran is not a dangerous place full of terrorists who want to kill you. The famous 12th century Sufi poet Sanai once said “Know him as a gift from thy lord, when a guest suddenly shows at your door”, and this attitude permeates the Iranian mindset. Iranians are friendly, really friendly, as in the friendliest people we’ve met on our extensive travels. They want to know about you, why you decided to visit Iran, what you think of the country and how you’re doing. They are genuinely nice people and love to chat to visitors about anything and everything. Tourists are rare in Iran for a variety of reasons and when Iranians see a visitor, they want to make sure that that visitor feels welcome.

top 10 visiting iran tips you should know travel advice

Walking through the streets of Iran’s cities, we were surprised at just how safe we felt. Money changers sit on the sidewalks, openly displaying cases and boxes full of cash, there are people everywhere going about their lives and it’s not uncommon to see families out enjoying themselves and picnicking (a favourite pass time of Iranians) late into the night, every night. We felt safer in Iran than we have in most other countries that we’ve visited.

Iranians will offer you gifts out of the goodness of their hearts and expect nothing in return however you might be surprised at the extent and value of the gift that they offer you, which leads to the next point…

Taarof

top 10 visiting iran tips you should know travel advice

Taarof is a Persian form of civility that encompasses a variety of social behaviours. Where visitors will encounter taarof is when at the shops or talking with a local about an object that they admire. Essentially a person (offeree) is obliged to offer anything another might want, and the person receiving the offer (offeror) is equally obliged to refuse it. This goes back and forth several times (generally 3) before the offeror and offeree finally determine whether the offer and refusal were real or simply polite. It’s confusing and you kind of just have to roll with it.

We encountered taarof several times during our stay in Iran but one example really illustrates it nicely. On our first day in Tehran we were waiting outside of our hotel when we spotted a really nice vintage car. One of our friends was admiring the car when a hotel employee walked out and indicated to us that it was his car. He asked our friend if he wanted to sit inside the car and take a look, which he did. When it was obvious that our friend really liked the car, the employee offered  him the car. He handed over the keys and said “take it, it’s yours”. In this situation, taarof was clearly at play.

The “Religious Thing”

top 10 visiting iran tips you should know travel advice

Iran might be an Islamic republic but one thing that was surprising even to us is that it didn’t feel like an overly religious place. Sure there’s the strict dress code, the ban on alcohol and photos of the 2 Ayatollahs all over the place but when it comes down to people actually living their lives, everything seems quite normal. Iranians follow the rules that are set down of course, but walking down the street you don’t feel like anything is being shoved in your face and beyond the obvious things, it’s all very subtle and the street scenes that you see could be that of any other place in the world.

Quite simply, in the major cities in particular, Iran just doesn’t feel super religious. It’s clear that the majority of Iranians live with the restrictions placed on them because they have to, not because they want to. Yes it’s simplifying the matter but as a visitor to Iran, you’ll be surprised.

Persians Aren’t Arabs

top 10 visiting iran tips you should know travel advice

Persians have a long and proud culture, which dates back thousands of years. Persians are proud of their culture and who they are and its important to note that Persian culture is distinct from Arab culture. On several occasions we were told that one of the biggest insults that you can throw at a Persian is to call them an Arab. It’s the misrepresentation of Persian culture that is offensive – for example Iranians were highly offended by the false depiction of ancient Persians as barbarians in the movie 300, as ancient Persian was in fact a highly civilised and advanced culture.

Numbers & Letters

top 10 visiting iran tips you should know travel advice

Although you see European numbers in some places, by far the most common numeral system used in Iran is the Hindu-Arabic numeral system. Knowing the symbols for numbers 0-9 is essential. Thankfully they are really easy to learn.

top 10 visiting iran tips you should know travel advice

Shops often only use Farsi in their signs, which can make pinpointing a specific place difficult however navigation is made easier by the fact that most street signs are bilingual, and contain street names that use both Farsi and Roman letters. This gives visitors a shot at being able to read maps and find their way around. When it comes to menus at restaurants and cafes, you’ve got about a 50/50 chance of getting an English menu. Thankfully, the super friendly Iranians will do all they can to make sure you can order something that you want.

Keep these 10 tips in mind when you travel to Iran and they will set you in good stead when you arrive. If you’ve been to Iran and have any tips you’d like to share, please let us know in the comments section below – I’m sure our readers would love to know.

Mocan & Green Grout, Civic

Hidden behind a hotel and next to another hotel in Acton, Canberra is Močan & Green Grout, a small but lively café that thankfully shares little in common with the fare of its neighbours.

mocan and green grout acton review

This cafe, which was already bustling when I arrived a little after 7am, was on this occasion filled with a combination of joggers, business people, and people like me who were attending the conference at the nearby hotel. I looked around in my half-asleep state and made for one of the vacant tables near the wall.

On opening the coffee menu I was greeted with the usual suspects including regular and large sizes, and choices of an extra shot or soy. There was also a selection of teas, juices and soft drinks, but given the hour of day, I ordered a large latte.

Large Latte ($4.00)

mocan and green grout acton review

When it arrived, it was nice to see the latte art, but I was a little disheartened to see it in a cappuccino mug instead of the expected tall mug or glass. It’s a small thing, I know, but I did find my Melbournian soul a little irked by it. Although despite this niggling mug choice, the coffee was smooth and flavourful with just a hint of bitterness. With the caffeine beginning to kick in, I picked up the breakfast menu.

The wait staff were patient as I read and re-read the menu before finally deciding on the dish that called itself the Savoury Avocado Granola. How did I choose this over everything else on the menu? I’ll admit, I chose it mostly out of a real curiosity of what it would taste like. It was a gamble of course, and I wondered if my random methodology might result in something less than satisfactory, but thankfully, when I mentioned it to the wait staff they seemed very pleased with my choice; although that could have just been because I had finally chose something.

Savoury Avocado Granola ($14.00)

mocan and green grout acton review

When I first looked at it, I was a little confused. There was bread, greens, half an avocado, a red flower, and spread throughout, granola coated in a layer of red spice. After carefully putting aside the flower I made a start, still cautious and wondering if I was eating it right. Was I supposed to eat the flower? Were the greens were just ornamental? I let go of my fears and combined the granola, avocado, and bread onto the fork and took a bite.

It could have been the hour of the day, it could have been the coffee, it could have even been the atmosphere, but either way, the flavour was something quite incredible. It was unorthodox certainly, and spicy enough to rival a solid Mexican dish, but really amazing all the same. This was so much so that I wound up finishing it at a speed I was worried would lead to indigestion. But to hell with the consequences, it was worth it.

mocan and green grout acton review

There is also a lot to like about the look of Močan & Green Grout. Like many Canberra venues, the café faces the challenge of trying to appear old and rustic while at the same time being located at the bottom of a newish residential and hotel area. It cleverly takes on this task by using a combination of a wood-lined interior, plants on the counters, and surfaces covered in gold-coloured polished metal, to make you really feel like you’ve stepped away from your surroundings and into somewhere entirely new.

mocan and green grout acton review

Overall, despite feeling the sting from with my latte mug pedantry, Močan & Green Grout’s location, atmosphere, and of course it’s food, make for a really great and unique café experience. If you’re staying at one of the many hotels in the area, I recommend skipping your hotel’s breakfast and coming here. It will most certainly be a more interesting option.

Močan & Green Grout

1/19 Marcus Clarke Street
New Acton South
Australian Capital Territory 2601

Phone: (02) 6162 2909
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.mocanandgreengrout.com

Open
Mon: 7:00am to 4:00pm
Tue – Sat: 7:00am to 9:00pm
Sun: 8:00am to 4:00pm

Click to add a blog post for Mocan & Green Grout on Zomato

S01E13 – Season 1, Episode 13

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PODCAST | In this very special episode we revisit the best bits of season one and visit places as far flung as a pirate bar in Western Australia, Moon Dog Brewing in Richmond, and even a quiz in South Melbourne.

Note: These specially chosen highlights were recorded in many different locations, so the background noise will vary. Do adjust your volume at will.

Brunswick Beer Collective Craft Beer Dictionary

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Here at the Brunswick Beer Collective we mention a lot of things, and every now and then an idiotic joke will emerge that seems to linger far longer than it probably should. So to save you having to listen back to every episode again (although we obviously recommend it) here are a few of the more prominent terms you might hear in the episodes to come – our craft beer dictionary you might say.

The Kristoff Scale

craft beer dictionary

Whenever we drink a beer on the show we always check it in on Untappd, an app that allows you to comment on a beer and provide a 1-5 rating. While a beer’s rating can swing wildly, one thing that is always consistent is that if Paul thinks a beer is average (he’d drink it again, it was perfectly acceptable, but nothing special), he will give it a 3.5 out of 5. This has since become known as the Kristoff Scale and is often referenced if any member of the Collective gives a beer a 3.5.

Untappd has since introduced the option to rate beers in 0.25 increments, meaning there is the potential for the Kristoff Scale to swing to 3.25 or even 3.75, but so far this hasn’t swayed Paul greatly. There was, however, an average beer in Iran which Paul rated 2, thus potentially breaking the scale, but this was non-alcoholic so we think can be largely ignored.

The Nap List

craft beer dictionary

Jeff is notorious for falling asleep at venues, and this has since become a running joke among almost everyone who knows or meets him. On the Nap List are venues that Jeff can fall asleep at without being mercilessly thrown out onto the street. You can read the full list in detail soon.

The Banned List

If a venue has done Jeff wrong, it will often end up on his Banned List.

This wrong could be anything from their staff members not knowing what beers were on tap, to the beer list being woefully out of date, to the venue being out of beef ribs. Whatever the reason, Jeff will only return there under sufferance, and he will go out of his way to ensure any one he knows will also not return to these venues, unless they want to risk also appearing on the banned list themselves.

It’s a complicated and often internally inconsistent system, if we’re honest, and from certain angles it shows all the traits of being a potential plot for a Marvel comics villain, albeit one of the sillier ones.

The ‘Fabled’ Macaroni and Cheese Burger

M&C

One of our favourite venues is the Park Hotel in Werribee, just outside of Melbourne. It’s great for a few reasons, but the one that continues to linger in our taste buds is its Macaroni and Cheese burger. It’s pure carbohydrates (plus thick cut bacon, which makes everything better), and probably terrible for anyone with anything remotely resembling a heart condition. However, if you’re medically sound, then the Collective can’t stress enough how much we recommend this burger. Check it out.

Jumping the Left Shark

One of the great and legendary beers made by the Melbourne-based Moon Dog Brewing is Jumping the Shark. It’s quite strong, and it deserves to be set down for a while before being drank. Like the brewery’s other fabled beverage, the Bad Boy Bubbly, this beer has been known to be the welcome hitchhiker a drinker might meet on the road to ruin. You can find out what the term, Jumping the Shark means here.

Left shark, on the other hand, is a term in the popular zeitgeist that refers to a dancer at Katy Perry’s 2015 Super Bowl half-time show, who, while dressed as a blue shark, was unable to keep up with the moves of the other dancers and instead chose his or her’s own way of dancing. You can see the show below, and an excellent fictional diary of Left Shark’s life is also out there, thanks to The New Yorker.

It has long been the campaign of the Brunswick Beer Collective for Moon Dog Brewing to rename their 2015 Jumping the Shark beer to be Jumping the Left Shark. We think this would work because it is the almost-perfect interception of a unique beer and the ‘left-shark’ ineptitude it brings to anyone who drinks it.

If you would like to help the Collective in this campaign, use #jumpingtheleftshark on social media and help us convince the good people at Moon Dog Brewing of the idea.

The Noosa Effect

In episode 12 of season 1, our frequent guest host Ben commented on being in Noosa in Queensland, Australia and searching craft beer but being completely unable to find any trace of anything that even remotely resembled it. We all mused on this for a while and came to the obvious conclusion that the craft beer revolution must not have happened yet in Noosa. This delay has since become known as the Noosa effect, where a part of popular culture is delayed in arriving at certain geographical locales.

Mark Twain (apparently) said a very similar thing:

“When the end of the world comes, I want to be in Cincinnati because it’s always twenty years behind the times.”

So we think we are onto something here.

Last updated 26 July 2015.

Gorgonzola Arancini: Recipe

Arancini may be humble in origin but when you combine left over risotto with oozing blue cheese, a sliver of black truffle and encase it in a crispy outer shell it becomes a little slice of heaven. This indulgent and gooey Gorgonzola arancici recipe can be made with or without the black truffle however the truffle adds an additional earthiness to these already spectacular balls.

gorgonzola arancini recipe


Preparation: 15 minutes       /          Cooking Time:  5-7 minutes    /          Serves 6


Ingredients

 

  • 300g left over risotto
  • 1 x 58g egg
  • 100g plain flour
  • 180g breadcrumbs
  • 50g Gorgonzola cheese, cut into 2cm cubes
  • 3g black truffle, shaved (optional)
  • 100-150ml rice bran oil for frying (any neutral, low smoke point oil will do)
  • Kewpie mayonnaise to garnish
  • a pinch of truffle salt

 

Method

  1. Combine the leftover risotto with 60g of breadcrumbs. Mix well.
  2. Scoop about 1 tablespoon (15g) of mixture and form into a ball.
  3. Make a hole in the centre of ball.
  4. Add a piece of Gorgonzola and a slither of black truffle.
  5. Press the top of the ball together so that the filling is surrounded by a layer of rice.
  6. Repeat, until all the mixture has been used up.
  7. Place your egg in a shallow bowl and whisk lightly.
  8. Place the flour and remaining bread crumbs on separate plates.
  9. Roll each of the balls in the flour, then the egg and finally the bread crumbs.
  10. Heat the oil in a frying pan.
  11. Add a drop of water to the oil. If the oil bubbles vigorously you are ready to start frying.
  12. Place the arancini in the pan and cook for 5-7 minutes until they have turned golden brown.
  13. Remove from the pan and place the arancini on kitchen towel to drain.
  14. Place a dollop of kewpie, a shaving of truffle and a sprinkle of truffle salt (or regular salt if you don’t have truffle salt) on top of each arancini.
  15. Serve on a bed of lettuce, with a few slices of pear coated in a little verjuice (optional).

 

Notes

I would recommend using a mushroom based risotto as your leftover rice as mushroom and Gorgonzola work very well together.

If you don’t want to eat the arancini immediately you can reheat the balls in the oven for 10 minutes at 180ºC (or in the microwave on high (1200 watts) for 1 minute.

Finally, a word of warning. These are extremely moreish and never last long, so tuck in before they are all gone.

 

Great Australasian Beer SpecTAPular (GABS) 2015

The Melbourne and Sydney Great Australasian Beer SpecTAPular, or GABS as it’s known, has really come of age. It’s still a beer festival, there’s certainly no escaping that fact, but the difference is that it is now also a memorable beer experience.

I was recently looking through some old cupboards and I came across several glasses I had collected from previous beer festivals. There was one from the Great British Beer Festival in London, two from Montreal’s Mondial de la Biere, and one from Melbourne’s own Beertopia, and I have to say that none of them were as memorable as GABS.

But what makes one beer festival better than another?

Everyone’s Beer Starts Out Equal

It’s often the case with these types of festivals that brewers will serve their tastings from their own stands, surrounded by their own promotional paraphernalia. What this often means is that the heavy hitters of the industry tend to attract the most attention, leaving the smaller breweries fighting to be heard. At GABS, while some brewers had stands you could visit; every beer tap was in one of two locations with no promotional material or favouritism to speak of. This may seem like a small thing, but it can really mean the difference between taking a chance and finding a new beer, and sticking with one you might have had before.

As we like to say, once in paddle form, reputations and scale go out the window and the the only thing to differentiate one beer from another is taste – which is what really matters at the end of the day.

great australasian beer spectapular 2015

The Queues Were Short & Efficient

Beer festivals work off timed sessions, so there is a finite period where as a seasoned drinker you can sample the beers on offer. This means it becomes imperative that the lines work efficiently, and so to do the staff. As anyone who has been to a music festival will know, efficient bar lines can really be the difference between a great experience and a lousy one. Thankfully, GABS did queues particularly well in two ways.

The first was to give patrons the opportunity to not only see the beer lists well ahead of time (they were in an extensive booklet available at pubs and bars across Melbourne and Sydney), but also to provide an app where patrons could prepare their tasting paddles. This combination meant that people could prepare in advance and minimise the number of queues that needed to be visited for a single paddle, and that the queues could be faster and more manageable.

The second was that the staff were well-picked and well-trained, meaning they were efficient and for the most part, accurate with what they served. They may not have known a lot about what they served, but as people were there to learn for themselves, they really didn’t need to.

great australasian beer spectapular 2015

There Was Something For Everyone, Even Non-Beer Drinkers

In some cases, a beer festival can be a like marathon, an endless stream of paddles and samples that slowly and surely whittle down even the most seasoned drinker to be nothing more than a blithering alcoholic. This is the case at a lot of beer festivals, and for the some of the craft beer only population, this can be perfect. However, there are always certain things that can make one beer festival stand out from another, and for me, that thing was to provide something other than beer.

great australasian beer spectapular 2015

Take the brass band for example, a group of jolly musicians wandering between the benches and playing popular songs to the masses, namely us. It may just seem like a distraction, but the band was something that really didn’t need to be there, but by being there, it helped to make the entire event something more than just a festival.

Adding to the community feel of the event was a ‘market area’ in the middle of the venue separating the taps at either end of the venue serving beers brewed specifically for GABS to the ‘beer nerds’ in attendance, where beer drinkers and non-beer drinkers alike could gather, chat, and even engage in a game of beer pong.

great australasian beer spectapular 2015

Other Aspects

For the food, well full disclosure there, we didn’t eat at GABS, choosing instead to visit the excellent Belle’s Hot Chicken in nearby Fitzroy beforehand. However, from what we did see, there seemed to be ample food available at the festival for anyone who chose to line their stomachs as they went. The official app even contained beer matching options for a lot of the food that was on offer which was a unique and useful touch. Vendors this year included Uncle, Huxtaburger, Mr Claws, Meatmother, Milk the Cow, and B’Stilla just to name a few.

There were downsides of course, such as finding the token stands or finding the bathrooms. There was also the lingering fear that the beer you had chosen would, due to limited supply, have run out. But these are all relatively minor concerns and are easily overlooked when the event is considered on the whole.

great australasian beer spectapular 2015

In the end, GABS really does achieve everything that makes a beer festival great. It’s fun, it’s interesting, has a great atmosphere, and like us, sees that beer is far more than just beer, it’s an experience that should be shared with one’s friends, and we know we’ll be back for more next year.

Did you visit GABS in Melbourne or Sydney this year? What were your highlights? Let us know in the comments section below as we’d love to hear what you thought.

Soft Egg, Goats Cheese & Tarragon Butter Ravioli: Recipe

This soft egg, goats cheese & tarragon butter ravioli recipe takes a bit of time at the start, but once you taste it, we know you’ll agree that it was worth it. I actually designed this recipe at the start of the Southern Hemisphere’s truffle season, with the presence of black truffle elevating the dish to another level.

This ravioli is very decadent, with the al dente pasta, butter, goats cheese and soft egg all providing a unique something in each tasty bite. Add the black truffle, and the depth of flavour increases even further, with just the right balance as not to overpower everything else.

butter ravioli recipe


Preparation/Waiting Time: 90 minutes       /          Cooking Time:  10 minutes    /          Serves 4-6


Ingredients

Pasta Dough:

  • 2 x 58g eggs
  • 200g plain flour

Ravioli:

  • 6 x 58g eggs
  • 12 asparagus stalks, cut into quarters
  • 125g goats cheese
  • 6 fresh tarragon leaves
  • 6g black truffle, shaved
  • 25g unsalted butter
  • a pinch of truffle salt

 

Method

Making your own pasta (skip to “making the Ravioli” if you are using pre-made pasta/wonton wrappers)

  1. Combine the flour and eggs to form a dough. You may need to add a little water or flour depending upon the humidity.
  2. Knead the dough for a few minutes then wrap in cling film and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
  3. Take the dough out of the fridge, discard the cling film and allow it to return to room temperature.
  4. Dust the pasta machine with a little flour.
  5. Divide the dough 3 three pieces.
  6. Place the pasta machine on setting 1 (thickest).
  7. Place 1 piece of dough at the top of the machine and turn the handle until the dough has passed through the rollers.
  8. Repeat once again on the same setting.
  9. Repeat steps 7 & 8 on setting 3 then setting 6 (progressively thinner).
  10. Once Step 9 has been completed place the flattened dough on a piece of grease proof paper.
  11. Repeat Steps 6-10 for the remaining pieces of dough.
  12. Divided each piece of flattened dough into 4 pieces.

Making the ravioli

  1. Choose 6 pieces of pasta, and form a circle of goats cheese on each of these pieces. The circle needs to be large enough to hold an egg yolk.
  2. Separate the eggs one at a time , placing 1 yolk in the centre of each goats cheese circle. Retain the egg whites.
  3. Place a small amount of truffle on top of each egg yolk.
  4. Lightly brush the egg white from step 2 around the edge of the pasta containing the yolk.
  5. Cover the egg/goat cheese piece with another piece of pasta.
  6. Start on one side and smooth the pasta out to ensure there are no air bubbles.
  7. Use a folk and lightly indent the outside edge of the ravioli, this will add a nice decorative touch in addition to helping the ravioli stay together.
  8. Place in the fridge for 30 minutes.
  9. Add water to a large fry pan so that it is filled half way. Bring this to a boil.
  10. Reduce the heat to low and add the ravioli to the fry pan. Leave them to cook for 3-4 minutes.
  11. While you are waiting for the ravioli to cook, place another fry pan on a low heat and add the butter, asparagus and tarragon.
  12. Once the ravioli has cooked transfer them to the tarragon butter and coat briefly.
  13. Transfer the ravioli to a plate, drizzle with a little tarragon butter, top with the asparagus and sprinkle with a few shaves of black truffle and truffle salt.

Notes

You don’t have to make your own pasta. If you’re looking for a faster option, you can cheat and use egg based wanton wrappers.

Good Beer Week 2015 Wrap Up

With Good Beer Week, arguably the most important week on the Australian beer calendar, now a month behind us, and with our hangovers passing slowing into obscurity, it’s time to wrap up what we thought of this year’s edition, which consisted of 10 days in which we tried over 110 beers over the course of 20 events.

Here were our highlights.
 

Welcome Evil Twin Brewing to Australia Tap Takeover Party

Our venue of choice to kick off the first official night of Good Beer Week was Carwyn Cellars in Thornbury which, since opening their back bar in 2014, has quickly become is one of our favourite craft beer venues. It combines a regularly rotating list of excellent local and imported beers on tap with an extensive bottle shop collection which is available for takeaway or consumption on site.

In putting together this event, Carwyn Cellars did a fantastic job of getting the non-core/more exotic beers from Evil Twin‘s extensive range on tap – too often we find that tap takeovers focus far too heavily on a brewer’s core range. The beers available included many of Evil Twin’s ‘heavy hitters’ including the appropriately named ‘I Love You With My Stout’ and the Soft DK (pictured below) which was one of our favourite drops of the week – these were sensibly priced with the stronger beers topping out at around $13.00 for a tulip (compared to up to $25.00 at some CBD venues).

Another key contributor to the event’s success were the plates of excellent American-style smoked meats (Jeff claims he had no idea about this when insisting that we go but we think otherwise…) which came with bread and slaw on the side and were quite reasonably priced at $20.00 for a combination of a beef rib and beef brisket.

melbourne good beer week 2015 wrap up review
 

The Danish Invasion

Aside from being an incredible craft beer pub sitting right near the train station in Werribee, The Park Hotel was also home to the Danish Invasion, featuring a selection of beers from heavyweights like Mikkeller, arch-rival sibling Evil Twin, and various other breweries like Hornbeer and Amager Bryghus.

As a takeover, we felt this worked partly because they put a real emphasis on range, partly because they offered quite reasonably priced ($15.00) tasting selections for anyone looking to taste everything they had on offer (and we did!). On top of this was an equally impressive Danish bottle collection, great food (we highly recommend that mac and cheese burger for a pure carb hit), a fun atmosphere and friendly, efficient staff – proof that you don’t have to be in the city to be a great craft beer pub. The staff also took a genuine interest when they noticed the Brunswick Beer Collective recording a podcast episode which was much appreciated.

melbourne good beer week 2015 wrap up review
 

Victoria vs Rest of the World Smackdown

This was a ticketed event held at the Terminus Hotel in Fitzroy North (or Clifton Hill depending on your map) and involved pitting 8 breweries, 4 from Victoria, and 4 from the rest of the world, against each other. The event was structured as a knockout tournament, with attendees tasting four beers following some light-hearted ‘advertising’ from the brewers in attendance, ranking each out of 10 and the top two scoring beers progressing to the next round.

This event was great for two reasons, firstly, all the brewers were not only there, but they were quite happy to talk with everyone and to spar with the other brewers who came along – a special thanks to Logan from Beavertown Brewery in London for taking the time to chat to Jeff and pose for a photo. Secondly, because the knockout rounds meant only the best beers went through to the next one, there was a plentiful supply of the amazing beers that didn’t make it through but were still provided for tasting in between rounds of beer combat which added up to around 20 beers sampled over the event. Congratulations to Boatrocker Brewery and their title-winning Ramjet 2014 for flying the flag for the state of Victoria!

melbourne good beer week 2015 wrap up review
 

Viking Beer vs Pig

One aspect of Good Beer Week which has really picked up over the years which we very much enjoy has been the focus on food as an accompaniment to beer. Our favourite food-driven event was on Good Beer Thursday at Lygon Street craft beer and cocktail icon Atticus Finch which involved matching 12 Scandinavian beers with 12 different cured meats. The beer selection was amazing, covering most of the major styles and with 11 breweries represented and the meats, which were mostly obtained from local sources, were delicious.

A full gamut of cold meats was on offer, ranging from a lovely spicy chorizo, to an amazing jamon made from acorn-fed black pigs to a meaty terrine that lacked the unnecessary ‘filler’ that is present in many terrines. This was the fifth edition of one of the few events that has been running since Good Beer Week began and we will definitely be back for more next year.

melbourne good beer week 2015 wrap up review
 

The Bacchus Flavour Train

Down a side street near Melbourne’s Flagstaff station, a stop often passed while riding the city loop, is Déjà Vu Bar, a very hip, very cool place, which was home to Queensland craft beer brewery Bacchus Brewing’s tap takeover.

What made this special compared to some of the other tap takeovers, such as the Pint of Origin events, is that it felt like the brewery was an almost perfect match for the bar. The labels on the taps, the signage, and the strange beer flavours featured (there was a particularly good Snickers red ale) all combined for a genuinely complete experience with the bar really suiting the brewery. I think it is with no lie that I suggest that Bacchus Brewing should consider taking over this bar on a far more permanent basis.

In the end, there were a lot of other great events throughout the 10 days, and each had their own interesting charms, but for us, these were the 5 that stood out the most. Of course there is one event that we didn’t mention in this article, and that is the Great Australasian BeerSpectapular. Keep your eyes posted, as we’ll be putting the article up on The City Lane later on this week.

You can also listen to our full after-Good Beer Week discussions in episode 11 of The Brunswick Beer Collective. Available here or on iTunes.

London Street Food: SE4, Brockley Market

LONDON | Welcome to the second instalment of our exploration of London’s street food scene. Today we journey south of the Thames and visit the Brockley Market in Lewisham. The Brockley Market is a fab community market that offers excellent street food in SE4. Brockley Market is a 3 minute walk from St John’s railway station or about a 15 minute walk from both Lewisham and New Cross railway stations.

Brockley Market has been getting quite a bit of press coverage lately, and is being touted as the “mini-Borough Market”. Apart from its size, what really sets this market apart for us is its real sense of community spirit. Many of the traders at Brockley Market are veterans, and have been at the market since the it was launched 4 years ago. It’s obvious that the local community rallies around this market. More than just a place to grab some delicious food or the weekly shop, Brockley Market is a gathering place for friends and families alike.

london street food se4 brockley market lewisham

At Brockley Market, you’ll find ample amounts of organic produce and meat along with speciality offerings. Case in point are the World of Zing who offer “world-class cocktails in a bottle”. World of Zing is a subsidiary one of the UK’s leading ingredient supplier for Indian restaurants, covering the range from Brick Lane to Michelin starred restaurants. World of Zing’s cocktail offering at Brockley Market on the day we visited consisted of Negroni, Manhattan, Blackberry Tamarind Punch, and Persian Lime and Nori Margaritas concocted using the finest spirits and ingredients. The bottles are a bit pricey at £25 but would make a perfect gift as they’re a fail-proof way to enjoy a hand-crafted cocktail at home. In fact after sampling the Margarita, we couldn’t resist a bottle to really upgrade our frequent “Taco Tuesdays” at home.

Continuing around the globe, we made a stop at Flavours of Spain who, as the name suggests, is a trader specialising in artisan cheeses and charcuterie and small producer wines from the Iberican peninsula. We couldn’t resisting the temptation of chorizo, marcona almonds, and a manchego that was named the world’s best cheese in 2012.

london street food se4 brockley market lewisham

london street food se4 brockley market lewisham

The Beer Shop London is a relative new addition to the market. The stall is the Brockley outpost of their bottle shop in Nunhead Green, SE15. They stock many of the best craft beers made within the M25. In the run up to get their liquor license, The Beer Shop London have developed a brilliant workaround – a takeaway container for your purchases so you can enjoy one of their quality beers or real ales off the premises.

Moving onto more substantial meals, and there are many options to choose from for lunch at the Brockley Market. We had heard wonderful reviews of Mike and Ollie’s Lebanese flatbread wraps. From the size of the queue it was clear a few others out there got the memo too. Chatting to people in the queue, we heard that the market was down two traders so some of the snaking queue was attributable to overflow. In any case, it was clear that this place commanded a following of regulars. Despite working their tails off, it was clear the men running the stall had a good bit of banter going on between themselves and their customers.

london street food se4 brockley market lewisham

Mike and Ollie offer a 3 types of Lebanese style wraps-with the works. When we were there they offered lamb, mackerel, and a grilled aubergine option. We were lucky enough to snag one of the few remaining lamb wraps (the fish had already sold out!). The lamb was slow cooked to perfection and doused with an ample serving of fresh herbs and hummus. The fresh, fluffy flatbread made daily was the real showstopper. The wrap looked gorgeous and we physically could not resist tucking in before taking a photo. At £7.00, it was so very satisfying and easy to eat.

london street food se4 brockley market lewisham

We had a brief chat with the Mike who comes across as a pretty cool dude who is most definitely super passionate about his craft. A bit more about the man behind the wrap can be found here.

Another stall that commands a hefty wait to sample it’s delicacies is Mother Flipper Burgers but as the saying goes, anything worth having is worth waiting for. Mother Flipper have developed a well organised system of separate ordering and collection points which suits itself to the large queue. When trying a new burger joint, we always going for the classic cheeseburger before testing any of the more elaborate creations to ensure that we’re comparing “apples with apples” so to speak. We like an even playing field for our comparisons to other burger joints.

For £6.00, one gets a burger that could rival the American South West cult burger, In-N-Out (yeah we said it). The burger is presented on an environmentally friendly plate. Its vessel, a glossy brioche bun. The burger is a hefty chunk of beef, fresh salad, American cheese, and an especially delicious pickle. The formula is simple but the result is superb. Mother Flipper features at several London street food markets including KERB and Street Feast LDN. We will keep an eye out for them and look forward to working our way through their menu!

london street food se4 brockley market lewisham

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For dessert there’s one stall that you must try and that is that of Kooky Bakes. Kooky Bakes offers a taste of American baking in the UK. A perfect example of the trans-Atlantic collaboration is their Banoffee Cupcake, which is delicious in every way. The cake was perfectly moist, while channelling all that is great about the British classic, banoffee. The perfect treat to round out a fantastic sunny London Saturday afternoon.

london street food se4 brockley market lewisham

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If you’re not already bursting at the edges by this stage of the afternoon then we recommend some ice cream or sorbet from Tufnell Park’s Ruby Violet, who occasionally drive their van to Brockley Market. The organic, hand made, creamy ice cream and refreshing sorbet are truly amongst London’s best and seasonal flavours such as basil & lime, matcha green tea chocolate hazelnut crunch keep things simple, and allow the high quality ingredients to shine.

london street food se4 brockley market lewisham

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If all of that hasn’t convinced you that you need to pay a visit to Brockley Market, then let us remind you that you can also do your weekly grocery shop here, with a full range of locally sourced, seasonal fruit, veg, bread, meat, poultry, game and fish on offer.

That’s it for now, but keep posted for our next instalment in the London Street Food series, where we head over to Brixton to check out its continually evolving street food scene.

Brockley Market

Lewisham College Car Park
Lewisham Way
London SE4 1UT
United Kingdom

Telephone: n/a
Email: [email protected]
Website: http://www.brockleymarket.com/

Open
Sat: 10:00pm to 2:00pm

Mezcaliers at Mamasita

Last month, Melbourne’s Mamasita launched their in house Mezcaliers (Agave sommelier), an idea that’s been a while in the making and is an Australian first. Think sommeliers, but for agave spirits.

Every night of the week, the restaurant will have a Mezcalier dedicated to answering any/all things agave, available to walking patrons through Mamasita’s 150+ strong agave distillates list. We think it’s a pretty great idea, and are happy to see Mamasita giving agave spirits the attention that they don’t often get.

The first batch of Mezcaliers have been through several weeks of study, exams and hands-on training, and include, from left to right, Oliver Russell, Mario Cardona, Luis Herrera, Simon Hodgson. Below are their profiles. If you’re a fan of tequila or mezcal, it’s certainly something you should go and check out!

Mezcaliers-at-Mamasita

Luis Herrera

Luis is a passionate Mexican, and a serial mezcal enthusiast, keen on gaining knowledge with every sip. Luis is “inclined towards pure, non-aged, terroir-revealing flavours”. He is a veritable wealth of information, and is always happy and willing to share tasting adventures with whoever is interested in the agave distillate world. His favourite agave distillate is raicilla, and in particular the La Venenosa Sur de Jalisco.

Simon Hodgson

Simon came to Mamasita with a strong focus on wine, and a desire to pump out high volume cocktails whilst learning a little about tequila. The Mezcalier program has opened Simon’s eyes to one of the most diverse and expressive distillates in the world. The best part of the training program for Simon is happening right now with trying to break down any and all misconceptions people have from the past. His favourite tequila is Casa Noble blanco, “for it’s exotic texture and easy approach – come and chat to me about it!”

Mario Cardona

Mario’s hospitality adventure began at Mamasita in 2010 at the tender age of 18, working as a food runner and eventually working his way into the bar. His love for agave distillates has blossomed to the point of becoming one of their Mezcaliers. Mario finds “so many rich flavours and such different characteristics in all agave makes it a journey to drink any of the spirits”. His favourite part of the Mezcalier training program was coming to understand there is so much history behind agaves and all the different uses for them. His favourite mezcal is Ilegal reposado, and his cocktail of choice is a Mezgarita.

Oliver Russell

Ollie came to Mamasita via nightclubs, and is a big fan of agave distillates because of “the variety that is able to be achieved in both flavour and aroma, through the agave used and the process of making the spirit.” His favourite part of the training was tasting and discussing all of the mezcals, tequilas, raicillas and sotols that Mamasita stocks, and he learnt a lot about these spirits through that process. Ollie’s favourite cocktail is the Mamasita Old-fashioned (made with Delirio reposado mezcal) and his favourite agave distillate is Del Maguey Chichicapa.