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Kyoto: The Geisha District Of Gion

Paul

-

10 October 2014

Gion, Kyoto is one of the most well known Geisha districts in Japan, with beautifully preserved architecture and traditional customs and entertainment. The streets of Gion are characterised by old wooden townhouses (machiya) which contain teahouses (ochaya), shops and restaurants. These buildings give the district a beautiful old world charm and, understandably the area is very popular with tourists. There are several modern streets in the area too which house accommodation, bars, clubs, restaurants and the like.

If you see a geisha posing like this, chances are she’s not a real geisha but rather an actor who will pose for tourists in exchange for money. This geisha, who I photographed from the side, was posing for some Chinese tourists, with some British tourists lined up next. Note that these are not official paid actors, but generally visitors themselves, and their presence is generally frowned upon.

Gion’s development originated in the middle ages, with the construction of the Yasaka shrine in 656. In July each year the Gion Matsuri festival is held, as it has been since 869. The festival lasts the whole month, and culminates in a huge street parade, Yamaboko Junkō. For 3 days before the parade (yoiyama) the streets are closed off to all non-pedestrian traffic and are lined with street food vendors, with some private residences opening their doors to exhibit precious family heirlooms.

Usually, an akachōchin (red lantern) outside a building denotes that an Izakaya is inside. In Gion, however, they can also signify ryotei or ochaya – mostly ‘member only’ establishments. In any case, walking through the streets of Gion it becomes very clear that there are no shortage of places to eat. Prices in the area are at the higher end of the scale, owing to its popularity and the large number of tourists that visit.

The geisha, or geiko as refers specifically to Kyoto geisha, operate in much the same way as they always have, providing entertainment to patrons of the tea houses. Entertainment includes things such as providing food, drink and conversation, dancing, singing, and performing music.

Around 6PM, many geiko and maiko (geisha in training) can be seen moving around Gion’s streets as they move from one engagement to another. The presence of security is to ensure that the geisha are not hassled when trying to get about as there are a lot of tourists around trying to get photos. Most people were respectful, standing to the side of the street and waiting for the right opportunity however there were some tourists who unfortunately went into full-on paparazzi mode as soon as they saw a geisha and had to be cautioned by security. Gion around this time of the day can get quite intense. Some good tips on photographing geisha can be found here.

The Shirakawa canal is lined by willow trees and several high end restaurants. It’s a very beautiful, quieter part of Gion and is a nice spot for reflection.

I noticed this geisha just outside of Gion’s border and was captivated by the contrast between the old world and the new. Inside Gion’s borders the geisha looked like they belonged, however just a few meters outside, they looked like they’d been picked up from old Japan and dropped into the centre of the modern world.

Kyoto is stepped in history, and is one of those cities where many of the things on the tourist trail are genuinely worth doing. Gion is no exception, and walking through its streets feels like stepping back in time. Despite the large number of tourists around, it’s still very easy to get a sense of serenity and authenticity in the area as most tourists tend to focus on the area around Hanami-koji Street from Shijo Avenue to Kenninji Temple, with numbers tapering off quite dramatically outside of this area.

Food & Drink In Victoria’s High Country

Paul

-

9 October 2014

4

Recently, my wife and I had a weekend free in which to plan a short break. After looking at various options we settled on a 2 day road trip in Victoria’s High Country, focused on the King Valley and the Northern Leg of the Great Alpine Road, from Wangaratta to Bright.

Being from Perth, my wife and I are still in the process of discovering what regional Victoria has to offer and are continually impressed by the sheer variety and diversity of options available only a few hours’ drive in every direction from Melbourne. We were completely ignorant about what Victoria’s North West had to offer and were keen to explore and discover.

We headed onto the Hume on Grand Final Day, and about 3.5 hours later, excluding a short stop in Glenrowan (site of bushranger Ned Kelly’s last stand and some “so bad they’re good” Ned Kelly related attractions) we found ourselves in the heart of the King Valley.

The King Valley is a region that is known for its wine production. The cool, even climate, long growing season and deep red clay lends itself to a variety of grape growth. Common types of wine such as chardonnay, riesling and shiraz are grown in the King Valley, but of real interest to me were the Italian varietals not often seen elsewhere in Australia such as sangiovese, nebbiolo, arneis and barbera, which can be traced back to the influx of Italian immigrants to the area post World War II.

Wine

There are a lot of small wineries in the King Valley region, far too many to try in one weekend. Here are the ones that my research indicated were worth visiting given our limited time frame.

Dal Zotto Wines

Dal Zotto Wines are best known for their prosecco, which was the first Australian made prosecco when it was originally released. Founder Otto Dal Zotto immigrated to Australia in 1967, and in 1987 opened Dal Zotto wines.

My wife and I tried a variety of wines at the cellar door, with the famous prosecco unsurprisingly being one of the highlights. Others in the range that we were particularly fond of were the Arneis and Sangiovese.

The trattoria is open for lunch and dinner, and contains a small menu focusing on simple Italian food done well. We ordered the antipasto spread and the salumi platter and were not disappointed. Apart from the prawns, which were merely ok, and the prosciutto, which tasted excellent but was sliced thicker than I prefer, everything was excellent, including the excellent service received from the charming Eric.

Dal Zotto Wines
4861 Wangaratta-Whitfield Road
Whitfield
Victoria 3733

Gracebrook Vineyards

The Gracebrook Vineyards cellar door and restaurant is located within a painstakingly restored 110 year-old horse stables building. It’s a beautiful building that’s full of character, and thankfully the wines don’t disappoint. Owners David and Rhonda Maples offer a variety of wines to visitors including, as you probably expect, the popular white and red varieties as well as a range of not so common Italian varietals. We were particularly fond of their Chardonnay (think bold, Chablis style) and Rosato.

We didn’t eat at the restaurant, but by all accounts the food is very good, using a fresh, local produce to produce a range of home style dishes.

Gracebrook Vineyards
4446 Wangaratta-Whitfield Rd
King Valley
Victoria 3678

Sam Miranda Wines

Sam from Sam Miranda Wines is part of the 3rd generation of a family that’s been making wines in Australia since the 1930s. Sam has been making wines on the current site since 1997 and in the same vein as Dal Zotto, focuses on the usual suspects as well as a range of Italian varietals. We tried a selection of wines at the cellar door and we found the reds to be the real standouts. In particular we were impressed by the prosecco and the 2 blends.

We didn’t get the opportunity to eat at Sam Miranda, as we visited just after we’d eaten breakfast. We still took a look at the menu out of curiosity, and the selection of Mediterranean inspired dishes using local, seasonal produce looked very enticing.

Sam Miranda Wines
1019 Snow Road
Oxley
Victoria 3678

Brown Brothers

As one of the oldest and largest wine makers in Australia, Brown Brothers needs little introduction. Established in 1889 by John Francis Brown, Brown Brothers is still family owned, with the 3rd and 4th generation of Browns running the business. The cellar door is quite large and there’s a lot of historical information and paraphernalia to look at. When it comes to the wines, there is a very large selection that covers a wide spectrum of varietals and you’d be hard pressed not to find at least one wine that tickles your fancy.

There are a few food options available at Brown Brothers – the Epi.Curious café and Patricia’s Table restaurant. I did not eat at either however the constantly changing menu focusing on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients did not look like it would disappoint.

Brown Brothers
244 Milawa-Bobinawarrah Road
Milawa
Victoria 3678

Pizzini Wines

I didn’t get a chance to visit Pizzini Wines however by all accounts this family run winery is well worth visiting to sample its range of Italian varietal wines and, in particular, the sangiovese. The food is supposed to be quite good too.

Pizzini Wines
175 King Valley Road
Whitfield
Victoria 3733

Beer

Bridge Road Brewers

Located in Beechworth, Bridge Road Brewers is one of the Australian craft breweries that I’ve been wanting to visit for a while now. The core range of beers are relatively popular around Melbourne and are always reliable options. On top of this, there are always some interesting special beers and one offs collaborations with other brewers local and international. I like it when a brewery is willing to continue to experiment with their beers even after they become popular and owner Ben Kraus has stuck with his small batch, hand crafted, local ethos.

Food wise, I didn’t have anything to eat as it was late in the afternoon and I had a big dinner planned at The Provenance however the pizzas here are famous and, along with the proper Bavarian-style big pretzels and simple menu focusing on local produce, a part of me was somewhat disappointed that I wasn’t able to eat here. The place had a really good vibe about it. With an indoor and outdoor area plus a playground for children, the whole bar/pizzeria section of the brewery is very family friendly – and there were loads of families about. A good example of a place that ticks all the boxes.

Bridge Road Brewers
50 Ford Street
Beechworth
Victoria 3747

Bright Brewery

Bright Brewery is located in a great spot in the scenic town of Bright, with views of mountains, parkland and a river available from its spacious outdoor area. In a similar vein to Bridge Road Brewers, there’s a reliable range of core beers on offer along with some more experimental options. A range of pizzas is offered along with a selection of simple gastropub favourites highlighting local produce. The pizza we ate was perhaps too heavy on the tomatoes but was tasty nonetheless with a thin, crispy base.

The outdoor area connects to a big playground and it’s a very family friendly spot.

Bright Brewery
121 Great Alpine Road
Bright
Victoria 3741

Sweetwater Brewing Company

Time got the best of me and I didn’t get the opportunity to visit the Sweet Water Brewing Company, which is located at the bottom of Mount Bogong and produces a variety of beers using the “sweet water” of the Kiewa river.

Sweet Water Brewing Company
211 Kiewa Valley Highway
Tawonga South
Victoria 3698

Black Dog Brewery

Another brewery which was on my list that I didn’t get the chance to visit was Black Dog which produces a variety of hand crafted traditional ales.

Black Dog Brewery
339 Booth Road
Taminick
Victoria 3675

Food

There is a lot of good food to be found in this part of Victoria – beyond the offerings of the wineries and breweries that I’ve discussed there are plenty of cafes and restaurants to choose from.

Provenance

One thing that I was certain of before I planned by trip up to this part of Victoria was that I wanted to have a meal at Provenance. Located in a beautiful 1856 former bank building, chef Michael Ryan’s 2 hatted restaurant serves up a constantly changing menu of contemporary Australian, Japanese influenced dishes with a focus on high quality local, seasonal produce. I had big expectations and these were more than met.

Read my full review here.

Provenance
86 Ford Street
Beechworth
Victoria 3747

Tani Eat & Drink

Tani Eat & Drink was awarded the award for “Best New Regional Restaurant” in The Age’s Good Food Guide 2014 and awarded its first hat a year later. After eating dinner here it’s easy to see why.

Chef Hamish Nugent worked alongside Michael Ryan at the Provenance and the influence is evident here. The food is contemporary Australian with a focus on high quality local, seasonal produce, but where it differs from the Provenance is that the

Japanese influences are a touch stronger while the overall vibe is more relaxed (in fact, there’s a bar menu to compliment the more formal menu). Co-owner Rachel Reed works the floor and is full of enthusiasm and passion which makes the whole experience even more pleasurable.

Tani Eat & Drink is a real gem in the area and my meal here totally justified not getting back into Melbourne until midnight that night.

Read my full review here.

Tani Eat & Drink
100 Gavan Street
Bright
Victoria 3741

Beanz of Bright

I wasn’t in Bright in the morning so didn’t get to eat breakfast here but had heard a lot of good things about the breakfast options at Beanz of Bright – the beetroot jam & dukkah and pesto eggs are supposed to be 2 of the go-to dishes.

Beanz Of Bright
103 Gavan Street
Bright
Victoria 3741

Whitty Café

A literal minutes’ walk up from Clarice Cottage in King Valley is the Whitty Café. We had breakfast here and, while the food and coffee isn’t going to win any awards, it’s acceptable.

Whitty Cafe
4905 Wangaratta-Whitfield Rd
Whitfield
Victoria 3733

Australian Pumpkin Seed Company

The Australian Pumpkin Seed Company is the first and only company in Australia to grow pumpkins for their seeds. Unlike pepitas which are all imported into Australia, and come from pumpkin seed with the husk removed, the pumpkin seeds used here are actually a specific, husk-free variety and are a lot bigger than pepitas. Everything is 100% natural and done on site. Co-owner Sharan was very passionate about the product when explaining it to us.

There are a range of cold pressed seeds to snack on, pumpkin seed oil and even pumpkin seed dukkah and meal made from the “waste” that results from the cold press process. We were particularly interested in the pumpkin seed meal as, due to my wife’s nut allergy, she cannot eat a variety of desserts that contain almond meal. Stay tuned for the results of our experiments in and upcoming post.

Australian Pumpkin Seed Company
5061 Great Alpine Rd
Ovens
Victoria 3738

Milawa Cheese Company

One of many food producers in the so called “Milawa Gourmet Region” which covers Milawa and Oxley, the Milawa Cheese Company has been producing Australian farmhouse cheeses inspired by European methods since it was founded by former city dwellers David and Anne Brown in 1988.

Soft and washed rind cheeses are the specialties here. We tried all of the cheese and there wasn’t a bad one in the bunch. We were particularly fond of the.

There’s also a café and bakery on site which serves honest food using locally sourced ingredients and produce.

Milawa Cheese Company
17 Milawa-Bobinawarrah Rd (Factory Lane)
Milawa
Victoria 3678

Milawa Mustards

Milawa Mustards offers 18 types of mustard. The mustard seeds are grown in Milawa and the mustards are grown on site. The mustards range from sweet to spicy, with my favourite being the “Hot Honey” which had just the right balance of sweet and chilli.

Milawa Mustards
1597 Glenrowan-Myrtleford Road
Milawa
Victoria 3678

EV Olives

My wife and I are big olive fans and are not shy when it comes to using olive oil in our cooking. EV Olives produces both and there was a range of plain and flavoured olive oils and olives to try. We enjoyed everything that we tried and were particularly fond of the chilli and garlic olives and the heavily awarded *stronger* extra virgin olive oil which had a buttery mouth feel and an intense olive flavour to it. A lighter olive oil is available for those who aren’t fans of the “strong” olive taste.

EV Olives
203 Everton Road
Markwood
Victoria 3678

Myrltleford Butter Factory

The Myrtleford Butter Factory is housed in an original red brick butter factory which dates back to the early 1900s. The butter is hand churned and available for tasting. The quality is apparent when you try it – I often purchase the salted version to have on sourdough toast in the morning – the butter is so tasty that it’s the only thing that’s needed on the toast. We used the buttermilk that we purchased here when creating our Buttermilk & Sriracha Fried Chicken Recipe.

You can watch the butter being churned through the viewing windows and weekly tours are also run.

Myrtleford Butter Factory
15 Myrtle Street
Myrtleford
Victoria 3737

Bright Chocolate

Bright Chocolate’s intentions are known from the moment you look at the logo and see the words “Bean to Bar”. Director and head chocolate maker, Simeon Crawley was inspired by the craft chocolate movement (e.g. Mast Brothers) that he saw emerging in the USA and decided to try the same thing in Australia. The focus is on ethically sourced single origin cacao beans, with the entire process “from bean to bar” occurring on site in a beautifully restored brick stables building.

We tried samples of all of the single origin bars and were impressed with the differences in the flavours of each, and how well they reflected what was stated on the tasting notes. The individual “bright fancies” were also very tasty – the salted caramel chocolate is a must try.

Bright Chocolate
8/3 Riverside Ave
Bright
Victoria 3741

Farm Produce

One of the many things that I really love about driving around rural Victoria is the vast array of produce available to purchase direct from the farm. Victoria’s High Country is no exception and there are a lot of places to stop and pick up some local produce, many of which operate on an honour system – take what you want and put your money in the jar. It’s heartening to see that people respect this and don’t abuse it.

Accommodation

Clarice-Jean Cottage

We stayed at Clarice cottage, which was booked through Dal Zotto and we were more than happy with the accommodation. The cottage is 2 bed x 2 bath with an outdoor area and a spacious open plan kitchen/living area.

Clarice-Jean Cottage
1 Bakery Lane
Whitfield
Victoria 3733

Jessie’s Creek Cottage

This was one of the accommodation options that we had heard was quite good. There were no rooms available when we called but by all accounts it’s worth putting on to your list of potential options if you’re going to stay in the area.

Jessie’s Creek Cottage
6187 Mansfield Whitfield Rd
Whitfield
Victoria 3733

Driving through Victoria’s High Country was full of pleasant surprises. There’s more than enough in this region to satisfy visitors for more than just the 2 days that I had up here and I know for a fact that I’ll be driving up again to explore some more in the future. Have you visited before? Do you have any tips of your own for would be visitors? Feel free to leave your comments below.

Tani Eat & Drink, Bright

Paul

-

8 October 2014

2

Tani Eat & Drink Bright was awarded the award for “Best New Regional Restaurant” in The Age’s Good Food Guide 2014 and awarded its first hat a year later. After eating dinner here it’s easy to see why.

Chef Hamish Nugent worked alongside Michael Ryan at the Provenance and the influence is evident here. The food is Japanese influenced contemporary Australian with a focus on high quality local, seasonal produce, but where it differs from the Provenance is that the Japanese influences are a touch stronger while the overall vibe is more relaxed. As well as the main menu, for example, there’s also a bar section with a more informal bar menu on offer.

Co-owner Rachel Reed works the floor and is full of enthusiasm and passion which makes the whole experience even more pleasurable.

The space is modern and bright, with clean lines and simplicity dominating.

A good mixture of local and international wines and beers are offered, along with a selection of sake and some spirits and cocktails. The Billy Buttons Gerwurtztraminer was what we had to drink and it was a brilliant example of the variety.

Oysters, Ponzu Dressing, Sea Succulents ($4.00 each)

I generally eat oysters in one gulp with a vinaigrette or a squeeze of lemon but these were designed to chew, with the ponzu dressing adding an different flavour than I usually get with oysters and the sea succulents adding a crunch.

Pork Buns, Pickled Cucumber, Kanko Mayo ($7.50 for 2)

We accidentally ordered 4 of these as we didn’t realise that each serving contained 2 buns. I’m glad we did as these were delicious. Tender, juicy pork, soft buns and beautiful simple flavours. I could have happily sat at the bar and filled myself up with a bunch of these to be honest. Really good.

Victorian Squid, Lime, Yuzu, Kiwifruit, Shiso, Apple Ice ($19.00)

This dish was a real mish mash of texture and flavour. The squid was cut into very thin strips which reminded me of eating jellyfish and more than squid and it went really well with the crunchy and soft textures present on the plate. Flavour wise the combination of lime and yuzu gave it a real citrus hit with the kiwifruit, shiso and apple ice providing a balance.

Milawa Quail, Fermented Cabbage, Fennel, Red Miso Sauce ($24.00)

Does fermented make this an “on trend” dish given the current rush to get fermented items onto menus across the country? Perhaps, but on the other hand fermented items are a staple of real Japanese menus. In any case, it tasted amazing. The quail was really tender and all of the flavours were really complimentary – a very subtle dish with delicate flavours and nothing too overpowering.

Sher Wagyu Rump Cap MS7+, King Brown Mushroom, Kale, Potato Crisp, Onsen Egg, Pork Salt ($39.00)

This dish was big on flavour with the star most definitely being the rare cooked wagyu rump cap. The crust was perfectly salted and charred while the inside had that melt in your mouth fattiness that’s expected with wagyu of this quality. Everything else on the plate was really tasty too, and the egg was especially rich and gooey, but it really was all about the beef.

Potato Chunks, Lime Mayo ($10.00)

The description of these on the menu really didn’t do them justice. The potato chunks were cooked perfectly – crispy on the outside and really soft on the inside and had a beautiful smoky flavour to them. The mayo was lighter than expected too. We were happy with some decent chips, which is what we were expecting but these really were a lot more than that.

Lemon Curd, Mandarin Cremeux, Frozen Whey, Ginger Meringue, Yuzu & Thyme Sable ($15.00)

It was getting late, and if we wanted to be back home in Melbourne we’d have to leave soon however this dessert sounded far to good to pass up. I’m glad we ordered it because it was a real highlight. Texturally there was a lot going on here – soft, creamy and crunchy. Flavour wise, everything worked so well together with citrus being the star attraction – it was light, refreshing almost, and utterly delicious.

Tani Eat & Drink is a real gem in Bright. The food and service are brilliant and my meal here totally justified not getting back into Melbourne until midnight that night.

Tani Eat & Drink

100 Gavan Street
Bright
Victoria 3741
Australia

Telephone: (03) 5750 1304
Email: [email protected]
Website: http://tanieatdrink.com.au/

Open
Wed – Thu, Sun: 6:00pm to 11:00pm
Fri – Sat: 4:00pm to 11:00pm

Chia Seed Pudding: Recipe

Paul

-

7 October 2014

4

This gluten free chia seed pudding is so easy to make that it’s almost embarrassing to call it a recipe. All that’s required is 10 minutes of effort in the evening and when you wake up you have a light, healthy breakfast waiting for you in the fridge. I love the rose and pistachio combination however you can be really creative with this. Lauren, for example is allergic to nuts and has hers with fresh strawberries instead. When summer berry season is in full swing I know I’ll be trying all sorts of flavour combinations.

Preparation Time: 10 minutes / Waiting Time: 8-10 hours / Serves 2

Ingredients

1/4 cup (118g) chia seeds
1 cup (236ml) milk
1/2 tsp (2.5ml) rosewater
1/2 tsp (2.5g) orange blossom honey
10 raw pistachios, unsalted and lightly crushed
honey to drizzle

Method

Mix together the chia seeds, milk, rosewater and honey.
Pour the mix into two small glasses and refrigerate for 8-10 hours, until it has a pudding-like rather than liquid texture.
Sprinkle the pistachios on top, and drizzle with honey to taste.

Notes

We like orange blossom honey for its mild, floral flavour but feel free to use your favourite kind of honey. Just be aware that stronger flavoured honey will overpower the rosewater.
For an additional rose and presentation boost, sprinkle some dried, crushed rose petals on top.
Black or white chia seeds work just as well as each other.

Dan Hong – Mr Hong: Cookbook Review

Books

Paul

-

6 October 2014

0

Dan Hong’s first cookbook, “Mr. Hong” is out this month. I’m a big fan of Dan Hong’s food, so when I heard that he was releasing a cookbook I was excited to see what the end product would turn out like. For those who don’t know, Dan Hong has built up quite the reputation in Sydney over the past few years with his innovative cooking which manages to elevate the simple, pulling off interesting new flavour and texture combinations. Hong switches between dishes that show the utmost respect to tradition and ones that turn traditions upside down.

“Mr Hong” reminds me of David Chang’s cookbook “Momofuku” – Hong has in fact cited it as one of his influences and the style is very similar. “Mr. Hong” is part cookbook part personal memoir, and is split into chapters which span the time from his stint as head chef at Lotus to his current gig as head chef at Mr. Wong via Ms G’s and El Loco.

An entire chapter is dedicated to his formative years and the Vietnamese food cooked by his mother (who wrote the foreward to the book) and this personal insight and genuine openness is a thread that is present throughout the entire book. Hong’s obsession with sneakers even gets a look in – the bookmark ribbon is a red shoelace. It’s the little touches which help make the book different than most. In fact, “Mr Hong” is a good read even if you don’t intend on cooking anything in the book but have a passing interest in food.

The recipes in “Mr Hong” are quite accessible. Sure there are some complex dishes, but the vast majority are things that I looked at and thought “I could cook that for dinner one night” as opposed to “I’m going to need to dedicate an entire day to that one”. Instantly recognisable amongst the 95 recipes are signature dishes from Hong’s career, such as Lotus’ “Lotus Cheeseburger” and Mr Wong’s “Salad of Snow Crab”, as well as a variety of other dishes with influences from all over the globe. There are no rules here, just big flavours and food that’s “delicious and fun”.

Thanks to publisher Murdoch Books I have 2 copies of “Mr Hong” (RRP $49.95) to give away to 2 lucky readers. To enter, all you need to do is subscribe to The City Lane by clicking on the link below. Existing subscribers can also enter.

ENTER THE COMPETITION

Sorry to my international readers but this one’s open to those with an Australian postal address only. Entries close on Saturday 25 October and winners will be notified by e-mail on Sunday 26 October.

Providence Cafe, Carlton

Paul

-

5 October 2014

0

Providence Cafe Carlton is the latest venture from Melbourne hospitality duo Elena and Michael Tan (Hero Subs, Reading Room Cafe, The Grain Store). Located just down the road from the Carlton Farmer’s Market, Providence draws inspiration from the philosophy that underpins these markets – supporting farmers from around Victoria by sourcing the best quality seasonal produce they can find and building relationships with the farmers and producers. I was invited to attend a preview breakfast event at Providence in advance of the official launch on 6 October.

The space is located at the base of Australian Unity’s new Rathdowne Place development. It’s very open and filled with natural sunlight. There’s a small range of produce available to purchase and some cafe items such as cakes and sandwiches to take away.

Breakfast Smoothie (Almond Milk, Blueberries, Banana, Oats, Dates)

Samples of some of the menu items were brought out for those in attendance to try. The food is simple and honest, with the ingredients being the focus. The breakfast smoothie was tasty and not too thick or sweet.

Blood Orange Breakfast Spritzer

The blood orange breakfast spritzer was what the description suggested. Freshly squeezed blood oranges with lightly carbonated water.

Flat White

The La Marzocco espresso machine pumps out coffees using a blend from Brunswick small batch roaster Code Black. I’m a big fan of Code Black and often use their beans at home so was glad to see them being used here. Unsurprisingly, the coffee was spot on.

Smoked Trout (Bubble and Squeak Potatoes, Gamze Hot Smoked Trout & Herbs, Crunchy/Creamy Patties, Poached Eggs)

I really enjoyed this dish. Good quality eggs make all the difference with a dish like this and these were poached just right and were nice and gooey and orange. All the other ingredients combined really well together.

Breakfast Salad (Grilled Barham Avocados, Sticky Ham Hock, Leaves, Peas, Coats Curd, Toasted Flat Bread)

This is my kind of salad. The avocado and ham hock were the standouts here. The avocados had a good, firm texture and the sticky ham was delicious.

Egg & Gamze Bacon Pie With Tomato Chutney & Leaves

These pies were really rich. The filling was full of flavour and the pastry was thick, butter and flaky. Without a doubt the most indulgent thing that I ate here.

Pumpkin & Lentil Fritters (Aromatic Spiced Fritters with Chilli Tomato Pickle, Coconut Yoghurt & Leaves)

The pumpkin and lentil fritters were the only thing that didn’t really hit the spot for me. The flavours were a bit muddled and the fritters were a bit too dense.

Breakfast Berry Clafoutis (Spring Berries, Toasted Almonds, Gundowring Rhubarb Ice Cream)

I was really happy with the sweet option. The clafoutis (baked pancake is a good description) had a nice soft texture, the spring berries were delicious and the ice cream was really creamy and very tasty. A really great dessert that screamed “spring” and was very appropriate on the sunny, warm day.

Owners Elena and Michael are clearly passionate about what they are trying to achieve with Providence, and discussed what it was all about with us.

Some of the producers who supply Providence were in attendance and spoke to us about their produce and philosophy. It was really great to hear from the people who are involved at the source and hear their genuine passion for what they do. The move towards more natural produce, seasonality and in general a desire to know what goes into our mouths can sometimes seem like some recent “inner city trend” but it of course goes a lot further than that. Hearing those who actually make the products, and have been in some cases for decades, talk with such passion about constantly striving to be better was great.

Felix Gamze from Gamze Smokehouse.

James Crooke from Gundowring Finest Ice Cream.

Ken Dugan from Cockatoo Grove Olive Oil.

I was impressed by the food at Providence, but even more impressed by the real commitment to supporting local farmers and using their knowledge and skill to help drive what the cafe does. Head chef Cate Hardman has been given free reign to work with the producers on the menu which will constantly evolve depending on what ingredients are best at any given time of year. A good philosophy backed up by simple, honest food.

Providence Cafe Carlton

497 Rathdowne Street
Carlton
Victoria 3053
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9240 7055
Email: [email protected]
Website: http://providencecafe.com.au/

Open
Mon – Sun: 7:30pm to 3:15pm

Buttermilk & Sriracha Fried Chicken: Recipe

Paul

-

4 October 2014

5

The buttermilk in this fried chicken recipe makes the chicken super tender and the use of Sriracha in the marinade adds a subtle heat kick. With American food, and fried chicken being very on-trend at the moment, we wanted to see what we could come up with at home. I think you’ll agree that this simple recipe really hits the spot.

Preparation Time: 35 minutes / Cooking Time: 15 minutes / Serves 6

Ingredients

1 kg chicken thighs
500ml buttermilk
4 tbsp (60ml) Sriracha
1/2 tsp (2.5g) dried thyme
1/2 tsp (2.5g) ground fennel seeds
1/2 tsp (2.5g) baking powder
salt & pepper to season
1 large (56g) egg
1 cup (234g) plain flour
Rice bran oil (quantity will depend on the size of your saucepan or deep fryer)

Method

Place the chicken, buttermilk, Sriracha, thyme and fennel in a bowl and leave to marinate overnight.
Remove the chicken from the marinade and retain 125ml of the marinating liquid.
Heat up the oil to 250oC in a high walled saucepan or a deep fryer to 250C
Add the egg, baking powder and half of the flour to the retained marinating liquid. This will form a thick batter.
Dunk a piece of chicken in the batter and coat it with plain flour.
Place the chicken in the oil for 12-15 minutes until the chicken is a deep golden brown colour.
Drain the cooked chicken on some kitchen towel for a few minutes to remove the excess oil.
Serve with a choice of sauces depending on what you like. We like to eat this chicken with a Sriracha and Kewpie mayonnaise sauce – 1 part Sriracha to 3 parts Kewpie, stirred together.

Notes

If you don’t have rice bran oil, you can use any oil that has a high smoke point like vegetable oil or sunflower oil. We like rice bran oil because of its very high smoke point and subtle flavour. As far as deep frying goes, it’s the “healthiest” option.

You can substitute chicken thighs for any other piece of the chicken however this will change the amount of frying time required. Breast will take longer to fry while drumsticks and wings will be quicker.

When developing this recipe we tried a variety of ways to coat it and found that the batter/flour combo was the best option. It gives the chicken a really nice crunch and is surprisingly light.

Provenance, Beechworth

Paul

-

3 October 2014

0

Provenance Beechworth is a small restaurant with a big reputation. Owner/chef Michael Ryan opened the Provenance in 2010 and in that time has built up big reputation for his forward thinking cooking which combines contemporary Australian and Japanese techniques with regional ingredients and Japanese flavours. These are all things that appeal to me, and I was excited about heading up to Beechworth to see what this Age Good Food Guide 2 hat restaurant had to offer.

Ryan is involved in all aspects of the restaurant. My wife and I had a booking for 8:00pm and wanted to know if we could bring it forward an hour. We rang the doorbell of the restaurant and were greeted by Ryan in his chef whites, who checked the reservations book and amended our booking. Throughout the meal itself it wasn’t just the wait-staff, but also Ryan himself who was bringing food out to the tables, explaining the ingredients and what was going on with each dish.

The restaurant is housed in a former bank building dating back to the 1850s. The high ceilings, timber floors and era appropriate fittings give the space a sense of old world charm. The bank’s vault is now the Provenance’s wine cellar, with an impressive list from around the world, with a focus on the local being put together by Ryan’s partner Jeanette Henderson. A decent selection of spirits and a small but good selection of beers are also available. I was impressed to see a Mikeller Green Tea beer on the list.

The menu changes frequently to reflect what’s in season and different things that Ryan wants to try. The balance between simplicity and innovation (Ryan has a chemistry background) is present throughout the menu. Diners can go for the degustation or order a la carte off the menu. We went for a range of starters, followed by the “3 courses (entrée + main + dessert) for $80” option.

Bread With White Miso Butter

The miso added a unique touch to the butter which had an airy whipped texture to it.

An Anchovy And Its Fried Bones ($4.00)

This starter was so simple, and was brilliant. The deep fried bones were delicate and crispy and the anchovy was salty and soft as would be expected. Proof that experimentation and simplicity are not mutually exclusive.

Air Dried Squid, Aioli ($10.00)

The air dried squid was another highlight, with the air drying giving the squid a very unusual texture. It didn’t have the usual chewy squid texture but did retain an element of that texture. It’s a tough one to explain. What I can say is that the texture really worked as did the flavour which was quite classic.

House Made Silken Tofu, Prawns, Crab, Soy, Pickled Ginger ($10.00)

This beautifully presented, delicate dish really hit all of the right spots. There were a variety of textures here – the softness of the tofu, the crunch of the spring onions, the pop of the crab and the bounce of the prawn. Flavour wise, this had sweet, sour and saltiness coming up against each other, with neither gaining the upper hand – a perfect balance.

Seared Beef, Roasted Broccoli, Citrus, Miso, Dried Blue Cheese

Another example of simplicity combining with forward thinking. The dried blue cheese was very interesting. The cheese wasn’t present in a form that most people would recognise as cheese but the blue cheese flavour was noticeably present. The tang of the citrus added a further level of complexity to the other ingredients. An great example of a dish where the the sum of all the ingredients rose above their parts.

Fried Quail, Broad Beans, Ginger, Braised Tofu, Pickles, Shisho Hishio

The quail was really tender and worked really well being crumbed and fried. There was a real mix of sweet and salty going on here and the flavour was amazing. Undoubtedly one of the highlights of the night.

Mushroom Congee, Umemoshi, Kombu, Pickles

In a recurring theme of the night, the congee was another example of a dish which managed to be simple yet innovative at the same time. There was a lot going on in this plate, yet nothing overly complex. It worked brilliantly.

Berkshire Pork Chop, Silverbeet, Parsnip, Dashi Butter, Burnt Garlic Oil

I really enjoyed this dish. Probably the least innovative of the dishes that we tried during the night it nonetheless tasted amazing.

Chicory & Earl Grey Ice Cream, Feijoa, Mandarin, Rice Paper, Spicy Flowers

This dessert was, my wife and I agreed, the highlight of the meal. It was one of those dishes that worked well no matter which way you ate it. Whether it was one ingredient, a combination of your choosing, or a bit of everything in one mouthful, it worked each and every time. The earl grey really stood out in the ice cream and went well with the spicy flowers.

Miso Custard, Apple Jelly, Chocolate Meringue, Fermented Cherries, Caramel Powder

This dessert was overshadowed by its predecessor. It was a great dessert and texturally it really impressed with the soft custard, jelly textured jelly, crunchy chocolate and, dare I say it, powdery powder. Despite the textural complexities and great taste, it still wasn’t able to beat the prior dessert for excellence.

I’m a big fan of places that are committed to showcasing local ingredients, especially when rural restaurants are concerned and the link between farm and plate is that much stronger, and local means regional rather than state. Ever since I returned from my first trip to Japan in April, I’ve been super keen to try food that blends this philosophy with Japanese technique and flavours. I’m not referring to Japanese food, but food that is clearly the result of someone who has eaten in Japan being inspired. Northern Light, Supernormal and Tani Eat & Drink have all found the right balance in 2014 and it was a pleasure to eat at the place that arguably started doing this first. The food, the service and Ryan’s genuine passion left me very satisfied with my experience at the Provenance.

Provenance

86 Ford Street
Beechworth
Victoria 3747
Australia

Telephone: (03) 5728 1786
Email: [email protected]
Website: http://theprovenance.com.au/

Open
Wed – Sun: 6:30pm to late

Apple Cider Vinegar Coleslaw: Recipe

Paul

-

2 October 2014

0

Apple cider vinegar gives this coleslaw a real tang. The recipe is super simple to make and works really well as a side, especially when accompanying pork dishes. The vibrant colours are sure to get people’s attention at any summer BBQ.

Preparation Time: 10 minutes / Cooking Time: 0 minutes / Serves 6-8 (as a side)

Ingredients

1/2 head red cabbage
3 large carrots, peeled
1/2 red onion
2 large green apples, peeled
1 generous handful of roughly chopped flat leaf parsley
1 cup (250ml) apple cider vinegar
2 tbsp (30g) white sugar
salt and pepper to taste

Method

Thinly slice the cabbage, carrots, onion and apples and combine in a bowl.
In a separate bowl dissolve the sugar in the apple cider vinegar.
Combine all of the ingredients together.
Season with salt and pepper and eat, or refrigerate for a few hours to intensify the flavours

Notes

If you have a food processor, use it to slice the ingredients in step 1. It saves a lot of time and gives you a better consistency.

Ilya Frozen Yoghurt “Frochella”: Event

Paul

-

1 October 2014

0

Ilya Frozen Yoghurt Elsternwick is one of many frozen yoghurt spots that’s opened up across Melbourne over the past year. I was invited to Ilya’s “Frochella” event to sample their offerings and find out what makes Ilya stand out from the competition.

Husband and wife owners Natasha and Jason explained to us at the outset what they were trying to achieve with Ilya and acknowledge that it’s a crowded froyo market place out there. Ilya’s point of difference was explained as being the focus on the quality of ingredients. The froyo is 100% natural and is made using organic milk, 5am organic yoghurt and, instead of sugar, Stevia and Erythitol (natural sugar substitutes) are used. When it comes to the flavoured yoghurt, high quality ingredients are used – for example the chocolate froyo contains Belgian couverture chocolate.

The above is all great stuff, but what about flavour? We sampled 15 flavours of froyo during the night, and the quality of the ingredients really stood out. The chocolate one, for example, was wickedly indulgent while the mixed berry flavour, which was one of my favourites tasted great too. What I was a fan of was the willingness to experiment with flavours. Along with the usual suspects, highlights for me included “Doughnut Speak” (churros flavoured), “Welcome To The Jungle” (coconut and pandan flavoured – kaya toast!) and “Lana Del Grey” (Earl Grey tea with dried cranberries).

I love seeing people who have managed to break free from the corporate 9-5 and follow their passions, and Natasha and Jason are on the right track with their attempts to differentiate their product. The froyo is of the highest quality and their are some really experimental flavours that I haven’t seen elsewhere. There are also dairy free and vegan options.

I’d be lying if I said that I’d be making a special trip out to Elsternwick just to eat some Ilya Froyo, but if I was in the area I’d have no hesitation eating it again.

Oh and if you want, visit the Facebook page and vote for my Flavour Master Competition suggestion “rose & lychee”. If it gets the most votes it goes onto the menu 🙂

Ilya Frozen Yoghurt

277 Glenhuntly Road
Elsternwick
Victoria 3185
Australia

Telephone: (03) 9077 1080
Email: n/a
Website: http://ilyafroyo.com.au/

Open
Mon – Sun: 12:00pm to 10:00pm

THE CITY LANEEAT & TRAVEL LIKE A LOCAL

THE CITY LANEEAT & TRAVEL LIKE A LOCAL

Wine

Dal Zotto Wines

Gracebrook Vineyards

Sam Miranda Wines

Brown Brothers

Pizzini Wines

Beer

Bridge Road Brewers

Bright Brewery

Sweetwater Brewing Company

Black Dog Brewery

Food

Provenance

Tani Eat & Drink

Beanz of Bright

Whitty Café

Australian Pumpkin Seed Company

Milawa Cheese Company

Milawa Mustards

EV Olives

Myrltleford Butter Factory

Bright Chocolate

Farm Produce

Accommodation

Clarice-Jean Cottage

Jessie’s Creek Cottage

Oysters, Ponzu Dressing, Sea Succulents ($4.00 each)

Pork Buns, Pickled Cucumber, Kanko Mayo ($7.50 for 2)

Victorian Squid, Lime, Yuzu, Kiwifruit, Shiso, Apple Ice ($19.00)

Milawa Quail, Fermented Cabbage, Fennel, Red Miso Sauce ($24.00)

Sher Wagyu Rump Cap MS7+, King Brown Mushroom, Kale, Potato Crisp, Onsen Egg, Pork Salt ($39.00)

Potato Chunks, Lime Mayo ($10.00)

Lemon Curd, Mandarin Cremeux, Frozen Whey, Ginger Meringue, Yuzu & Thyme Sable ($15.00)

Tani Eat & Drink

Ingredients

Method

Notes

Breakfast Smoothie (Almond Milk, Blueberries, Banana, Oats, Dates)

Blood Orange Breakfast Spritzer

Flat White

Smoked Trout (Bubble and Squeak Potatoes, Gamze Hot Smoked Trout & Herbs, Crunchy/Creamy Patties, Poached Eggs)

Breakfast Salad (Grilled Barham Avocados, Sticky Ham Hock, Leaves, Peas, Coats Curd, Toasted Flat Bread)

Egg & Gamze Bacon Pie With Tomato Chutney & Leaves

Pumpkin & Lentil Fritters (Aromatic Spiced Fritters with Chilli Tomato Pickle, Coconut Yoghurt & Leaves)

Breakfast Berry Clafoutis (Spring Berries, Toasted Almonds, Gundowring Rhubarb Ice Cream)

Providence Cafe Carlton

Ingredients

Method

Notes

Bread With White Miso Butter

An Anchovy And Its Fried Bones ($4.00)

Air Dried Squid, Aioli ($10.00)

House Made Silken Tofu, Prawns, Crab, Soy, Pickled Ginger ($10.00)

Seared Beef, Roasted Broccoli, Citrus, Miso, Dried Blue Cheese

Fried Quail, Broad Beans, Ginger, Braised Tofu, Pickles, Shisho Hishio

Mushroom Congee, Umemoshi, Kombu, Pickles

Berkshire Pork Chop, Silverbeet, Parsnip, Dashi Butter, Burnt Garlic Oil

Chicory & Earl Grey Ice Cream, Feijoa, Mandarin, Rice Paper, Spicy Flowers

Miso Custard, Apple Jelly, Chocolate Meringue, Fermented Cherries, Caramel Powder

Provenance

Ingredients

Method

Notes

Ilya Frozen Yoghurt

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